dermaceutic Mela Cream
dermaceutic Dermaceutic Mela Cream lists 30 ingredients on its label, 29 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.
Ingredients overview
Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.
Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.
- Water
- Paraffinum Liquidum
- Cetearyl Alcohol
- Kojic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Arbutin
- Mandelic Acid
- Salicylic Acid
- Glycyrrhetinic Acid
- Retinol
- Phytic Acid
- Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
- Tocopherol
- Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
- Polysorbate 20
- Ceteareth-12
- Glycerin
- Lecithin
- Phenoxyethanol
- Benzyl Alcohol
- Ethylhexylglycerin
- Potassium Sorbate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate
- Disodium Phosphate
- BHA
- Dipotassium Phosphate
- BHT
- Sodium Hydroxide
- Sodium Benzoate
Highlights
Free of fragranceFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains mineral oilContains essential oilsContains PEGContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergensContains sulfates
Key ingredients
- ANTIPLAQUE
- Water
- ANTISTATIC
- Paraffinum Liquidum
- SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
- Cetearyl Alcohol
- ANTIOXIDANT
- Kojic AcidArbutin
- SMOOTHING
- Niacinamide
- ANTIMICROBIAL
- Mandelic Acid
- ANTI-SEBORRHEIC
- Salicylic Acid
Other ingredients
Glycyrrhetinic AcidRetinolPhytic AcidGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractTocopherolUndecylenoyl PhenylalaninePolysorbate 20Ceteareth-12GlycerinLecithinPhenoxyethanolBenzyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerinPotassium SorbateSodium Lauryl SulfateSodium Cetearyl SulfateDisodium PhosphateBHADipotassium PhosphateBHTSodium HydroxideSodium Benzoate
Skim through
| Ingredient | What it does | Irr. · Com. | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water | ANTIPLAQUE, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Paraffinum Liquidum | ANTISTATIC, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN PROTECTING, SOLVENT | 0 · 2 | Green |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, EMULSION STABILISING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, OPACIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Kojic Acid | ANTIOXIDANT, BLEACHING · 限制 III / 375 | 2 · 0 | Yellow |
| Niacinamide | SMOOTHING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Arbutin | ANTIOXIDANT, BLEACHING, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS · 限制 III/378 | 0 · 0 | Yellow |
| Mandelic Acid | ANTIMICROBIAL | 2 · 0 | Green |
| Salicylic Acid | ANTI-SEBORRHEIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, KERATOLYTIC, FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE, SKIN CONDITIONING · 限制 III/98 V/3 | 2 · 0 | Yellow |
| Glycyrrhetinic Acid | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Retinol | SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS · 限制 III/376 | 3 · 0 | Yellow |
| Phytic Acid | CHELATING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract | BLEACHING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SMOOTHING, SOOTHING, PERFUMING | — | Green |
| Tocopherol | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine | SKIN CONDITIONING | – · 0 | Green |
| Polysorbate 20 | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Ceteareth-12 | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Glycerin | DENATURANT, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, ORAL CARE, SKIN PROTECTING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Lecithin | ANTISTATIC, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Phenoxyethanol | ANTIMICROBIAL, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/29 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Benzyl Alcohol | PRESERVATIVE, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING · 限制 III/45 and V/34 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Ethylhexylglycerin | DEODORANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Potassium Sorbate | FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/4 | 0 · – | Yellow |
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate | CLEANSING, DENATURANT, FOAMING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 4 · 0 | Yellow |
| Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate | CLEANSING, FOAMING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 2 · – | Green |
| Disodium Phosphate | ANTICORROSIVE, BUFFERING, FRAGRANCE | 1 · 0 | Green |
| BHA | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE | 0 · 0 | Yellow |
| Dipotassium Phosphate | ANTICORROSIVE, BUFFERING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| BHT | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE · 限制 III / 325 | 0 · 0 | Yellow |
| Sodium Hydroxide | BUFFERING, DENATURANT · 限制 III/15a | 3 · – | Green |
| Sodium Benzoate | ANTICORROSIVE, FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/1 | 0 · – | Yellow |
Ingredients explained
- Water
- Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth
- Paraffinum Liquidum
- Mineral oil occlusive; high moisture retention but heavy feel, moderate comedogenicity, caution for acne-prone skin.
- Cetearyl Alcohol
- Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant
- Kojic Acid
- Tyrosinase inhibitor for whitening; EU limit 1% in water, unstable and requires light protection, potential irritation.
- Niacinamide
- Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity
- Arbutin
- Tyrosinase inhibitor for whitening; typical use 1-2%, comply with EU restrictions on specific arbutins.
- Mandelic Acid
- Alpha-hydroxy acid for exfoliation and antibacterial effects; mild penetration, less photosensitivity than other AHAs
- Salicylic Acid
- Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.
- Glycyrrhetinic Acid
- Glycyrrhizic acid; anti-inflammatory; poor water solubility, needs solubilization.
- Retinol
- Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated
- Phytic Acid
- Natural chelator for formula stability; acidic, may shift pH at high levels.
- Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
- Liquorice root extract for soothing and brightening; batch variability, watch polyphenol interactions
- Tocopherol
- Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light
- Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
- Synthetic peptide emollient regulating sebum and hydration; low comedogenic, used in acne-prone and oily skin formulas.
- Polysorbate 20
- Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.
- Ceteareth-12
- Not decoded yet
- Glycerin
- Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives
- Lecithin
- Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.
- Phenoxyethanol
- Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin
- Benzyl Alcohol
- Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.
- Ethylhexylglycerin
- Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel
- Potassium Sorbate
- Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- Strong anionic surfactant, high foam; high irritation risk, avoid in sensitive formulas.
- Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate
- Anionic surfactant with strong foaming and cleansing power; milder than SLS but can still irritate dry skin.
- Disodium Phosphate
- Phosphate buffer for pH adjustment and preservation; water-soluble; high levels may irritate mucous membranes.
- BHA
- Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA); oil-phase antioxidant. Use <0.05%. Controversial at high levels.
- Dipotassium Phosphate
- Buffer, pH control, non-irritating, non-comedogenic.
- BHT
- Lipophilic antioxidant at 0.01-0.05%; ineffective with acidic systems, label-sensitive, check regulatory limits as preservative alternative.
- Sodium Hydroxide
- Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care
- Sodium Benzoate
- Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates
Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-19. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page
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