rationale #2 The Light Crème

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycerin
3. Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
4. Trilaurin
5. Squalane
6. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
7. Jojoba Esters
8. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
9. Propanediol
10. Tocopherol
11. Cetearyl Alcohol
12. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
13. Betaine
14. Bisabolol
15. Tocotrienols
16. 1,2-Hexanediol
17. Glyceryl Stearate
18. Lecithin
19. Pentylene Glycol
20. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
21. Ascorbyl Glucoside
22. Helianthus Annuus Extract
23. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
24. Butylene Glycol
25. Carnosine
26. Solanum Lycopersicum Seed Oil
27. Caprylhydroxamic Acid
28. Disodium EDTA
29. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
30. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
31. Phytosteryl Macadamiate
32. Tocopheryl Acetate
33. Elaeis Guineensis Oil
34. Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
35. Kunzea Pomifera Fruit Extract
36. Brachychiton Acerifolius Flower Extract
37. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Oil
38. Juniperus Mexicana Oil
39. Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
40. Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil
41. Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil
42. Ceteareth-25
43. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
44. Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
45. Citrus Limon Peel Oil
46. Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
47. Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
48. Magnesium Aspartate
49. Zinc Gluconate
50. Sodium Phosphate
51. Polyglycerin-3
52. Phytosterols
53. Ubiquinone
54. Cetyl Alcohol
55. Glutathione
56. Superoxide Dismutase
57. Ci 73360
58. Talc
59. Caprylyl Glycol
60. Sodium Benzoate
61. Ligustrum Lucidum Seed Extract
62. Behenic Acid
63. Ceramide NP
64. Cholesterol
65. Copper Gluconate
66. Nonapeptide-1
67. Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
68. Ceramide NS
69. Glycine
70. Serine
71. Glutamic Acid
72. Ceramide AP
73. Ceramide EOP
74. Ceramide EOS
75. Aspartic Acid
76. Citric Acid
77. Leucine
78. Potassium Sorbate
79. Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
80. Caprooyl Sphingosine
81. Alanine
82. Lysine
83. Arginine
84. Tyrosine
85. Phenylalanine
86. Proline
87. Threonine
88. Valine
89. Isoleucine
90. Histidine
91. Lycopene
92. Disodium Phosphate
93. Limonene
94. Citral
95. Linalool

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

HAIR CONDITIONING

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

SqualaneJojoba Esters

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

BINDING

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Other ingredients

TrilaurinTocopherolCetearyl AlcoholAscorbyl TetraisopalmitateBetaineBisabololTocotrienols1,2-HexanediolGlyceryl StearateLecithinPentylene GlycolHelianthus Annuus Seed OilAscorbyl GlucosideHelianthus Annuus ExtractSodium Stearoyl GlutamateButylene GlycolCarnosineSolanum Lycopersicum Seed OilCaprylhydroxamic AcidDisodium EDTASodium Ascorbyl PhosphateCitrus Aurantium Dulcis OilPhytosteryl MacadamiateTocopheryl AcetateElaeis Guineensis OilVaccinium Macrocarpon Seed OilKunzea Pomifera Fruit ExtractBrachychiton Acerifolius Flower ExtractCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf OilJuniperus Mexicana OilPelargonium Graveolens OilCitrus Aurantium Amara Flower OilEugenia Caryophyllus Leaf OilCeteareth-25Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilCitrus Grandis Peel OilCitrus Limon Peel OilLitsea Cubeba Fruit OilMyrtus Communis Leaf ExtractMagnesium AspartateZinc GluconateSodium PhosphatePolyglycerin-3PhytosterolsUbiquinoneCetyl AlcoholGlutathioneSuperoxide DismutaseCi 73360TalcCaprylyl GlycolSodium BenzoateLigustrum Lucidum Seed ExtractBehenic AcidCeramide NPCholesterolCopper GluconateNonapeptide-1Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit ExtractCeramide NSGlycineSerineGlutamic AcidCeramide APCeramide EOPCeramide EOSAspartic AcidCitric AcidLeucinePotassium SorbateCaprooyl PhytosphingosineCaprooyl SphingosineAlanineLysineArginineTyrosinePhenylalanineProlineThreonineValineIsoleucineHistidineLycopeneDisodium PhosphateLimoneneCitralLinalool

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters

Blend of jojoba and macadamia oil esters, mimics sebum, low comedogenicity suitable for all skin types; esterification improves stability over pure oils.

Trilaurin

Not decoded yet

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Jojoba Esters

Jojoba esters, light emollient ester, low comedogenic; sebum-like, excellent spreadability.

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Water-soluble film former for styling and thickening; check residual acryloyl chloride for sensitive skin.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Vitamin C ester antioxidant; more stable than ascorbic acid but still light-sensitive.

Betaine

Betaine for mild moisturizing/surfactant; low concentration 1-2% common, high may irritate.

Bisabolol

Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.

Tocotrienols

Vitamin E isomer; potent antioxidant for lipid protection and UV synergy, light and heat sensitive.

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Stable Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant; more stable than pure ascorbic acid, releases activity slowly in neutral/basic conditions.

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Sunflower extract; oleic/vit E rich; emollient, low irrit, good for dry skin, no pub comed data

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Mild amino-acid surfactant, poor solubility, pairs with fatty alcohols, fine foam.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Carnosine

Dipeptide skin conditioner with antioxidant and buffering properties; used in synergy with other actives.

Solanum Lycopersicum Seed Oil

Tomato seed oil rich in lycopene and vitamin E; antioxidant and moisturizing repair for anti-aging and hand care formulas

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Chelating agent to stabilize metal ions; often paired with antioxidants for system stability, used at low levels

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Vitamin C derivative antioxidant at 0.5–2%; light-sensitive, requires opaque packaging

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Sweet orange oil; fragrance/antioxidant, contains furanocoumarins (photosensitizing), use at night or with SPF.

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Phytosteryl macadamiate for hair and skin care; good occlusion

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Palm oil, emollient occlusive; saturated fats, moderate comedogenic risk.

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil

Blueberry seed oil rich in GLA; supports skin barrier repair; moderate comedogenic risk, patch test recommended.

Kunzea Pomifera Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Brachychiton Acerifolius Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Oil

Not decoded yet

Juniperus Mexicana Oil

Mexican juniper essential oil for scent; high levels of essential oils are irritating.

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Pelargonium graveolens oil containing citronellol and geraniol; used as perfuming agent, contains labeled allergens requiring compliance checks.

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil

Bitter orange flower oil, an essential oil used for fragrance and skin conditioning; contains labeled allergen compounds, caution for sensitive skin.

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Clove leaf oil for fragrance and conditioning; irritant risk at high levels, restricted by EU.

Ceteareth-25

Not decoded yet

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Bergamot essential oil, natural fragrance and photosensitizer; limit daytime use or use FCF grade

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Grapefruit peel oil for fragrance; EU restricted, sensitizing properties, used as fragrance.

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Lemon peel oil for fragrance/skin conditioning; contains allergens, mind phototoxicity and compliance

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Litsaea cubeba fruit oil; distinct aroma, potential irritant; use as essential oil, label fully.

Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Magnesium Aspartate

Magnesium aspartate; water-soluble chelant/conditioner. Use at 1-2%; check chelation efficiency.

Zinc Gluconate

Chelated zinc salt with antimicrobial and deodorizing effects; used in antiperspirants and oral care; has EU concentration limit.

Sodium Phosphate

Phosphate buffer and anti-seborrheic; pH regulator, aids sebum control, high levels are irritating

Polyglycerin-3

Not decoded yet

Phytosterols

Plant sterol mix for skin barrier repair and soothing; plant-derived, no reported sensitization.

Ubiquinone

Coenzyme Q10 analog used as an antioxidant; prone to discoloration, needs protection from light and air.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Glutathione

Antioxidant and brightening agent; unstable, requires antioxidants and protection from light.

Superoxide Dismutase

Enzymatic antioxidant breaking down superoxide radicals; used as bioactive at low levels, requires strict temperature control to prevent inactivation.

Ci 73360

Lake red pigment for coloration; inert, non-irritating, used within concentration limits

Talc

Inorganic mineral powder for texture and oil absorption; must be asbestos-free; fineness affects skin feel and safety, avoid inhalation.

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Ligustrum Lucidum Seed Extract

Not decoded yet

Behenic Acid

Behenic acid, emulsifier and thickener; high comedogenic rating, limit use on acne-prone skin.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Copper Gluconate

Copper gluconate; trace antioxidant/repair agent. Use <0.05%; high levels cause color change/irritation.

Nonapeptide-1

Nonapeptide-1 for hair/skin conditioning; enhances shine and strength, low irritation.

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; traditional lightening agent; antioxidant for uneven skin tone.

Ceramide NS

Ceramide NS for barrier repair; gentle and suitable for sensitive or dry skin.

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Serine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; high water solubility, compatible with sensitive skin.

Glutamic Acid

Glutamic acid, non-essential amino acid humectant; high levels can be astringent, buffer needed.

Ceramide AP

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Ceramide EOS

Barrier-repairing ceramide, 0.1–1%; optimal with hydrated lipids, suitable for dry skin

Aspartic Acid

Amino acid humectant and conditioner, common in rinse-off products; low levels mild, high levels may shift pH

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Leucine

Amino acid for antistatic and skin/hair conditioning; used at low concentrations.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Plant-derived biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning.

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning; often formulated with other lipids.

Alanine

Amino acid for antistatic and conditioning; low irritation, slight salty taste at high levels

Lysine

Amino acid conditioner for anti-static hair care; low irritation at typical cosmetic concentrations.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Tyrosine

Amino acid involved in melanin synthesis; used for hair conditioning.

Phenylalanine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning; usually part of a blend, no significant standalone efficacy data

Proline

Proline, amino-acid humectant; boosts stratum corneum hydration, stable at pH 4-5.

Threonine

Threonine, essential amino acid for hair/skin; blended with other AAs for balance.

Valine

Amino acid humectant, common in amino acid cleansers and sprays; mild, suitable for all skin types

Isoleucine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning and antistatic purposes; often blended; check taste if high.

Histidine

Amino acid humectant and antistatic agent; pH-dependent behavior, consider buffering in formulation.

Lycopene

Not decoded yet

Disodium Phosphate

Phosphate buffer for pH adjustment and preservation; water-soluble; high levels may irritate mucous membranes.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Citral

Citral; citrus fragrance component, listed EU allergen, high phototoxicity risk, strict concentration limits apply.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

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