deconstruct Hydrating Moisturizer - 3% Nmf Complex

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Calendula Officinalis Extract
3. Glycerine
4. Diheptyl Succinate
5. Triethanolamine
6. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
7. Sodium PCA
8. Pca
9. Serine
10. Alanine
11. Glycine
12. Glutamic Acid
13. Lysine Hcl
14. Threonine
15. Arginine
16. Proline
17. Sodium Lactate
18. Panthenol
19. Acorus Calamus Root Extract
20. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
21. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
22. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
23. Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
24. Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract
25. Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
26. Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract
27. Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
28. Phenoxyethanol
29. Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
30. Sodium Gluconate
31. Ethylhexylglycerin
32. Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
33. Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
34. Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
35. Glyceryl Stearate
36. Lecithin
37. Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oils

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SKIN CONDITIONING

Calendula Officinalis Extract

保湿剂

Glycerine

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Diheptyl Succinate

BUFFERING

Triethanolamine

EMULSION STABILISING

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

ANTISTATIC

Sodium PCA

HUMECTANT

Pca

Other ingredients

SerineAlanineGlycineGlutamic AcidLysine HclThreonineArginineProlineSodium LactatePanthenolAcorus Calamus Root ExtractAloe Barbadensis Leaf ExtractButyrospermum Parkii ButterCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractChamomilla Recutita Flower ExtractCinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark ExtractCocos Nucifera Fruit ExtractCommiphora Myrrha Resin ExtractOlea Europaea Fruit OilPhenoxyethanolGossypium Herbaceum Seed OilSodium GluconateEthylhexylglycerinMacadamia Ternifolia Seed OilArgania Spinosa Kernel OilCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid CopolymerGlyceryl StearateLecithinPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Calendula Officinalis Extract

Calendula extract; antioxidant, potential allergen at high doses

Glycerine

Workhorse humectant at 3-10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives, low irritancy.

Diheptyl Succinate

Light emollient ester; refreshing non-greasy feel, often replaces heavier mineral oils.

Triethanolamine

Triethanolamine for buffering; restricted, limit concentration to avoid high pH and irritation

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Crosspolymer for thickening/film; needs neutralization to pH 7-8 to hydrate, check ion strength.

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA, NMF component, 1-10% humectant; salty/tacky at high levels.

Pca

Proline carboxylic acid, NMF component; humectant, generally low irritation but may sensitise.

Serine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; high water solubility, compatible with sensitive skin.

Alanine

Amino acid for antistatic and conditioning; low irritation, slight salty taste at high levels

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Glutamic Acid

Glutamic acid, non-essential amino acid humectant; high levels can be astringent, buffer needed.

Lysine Hcl

Lysine HCl, amino acid for hair and skin conditioning, reduces protein loss

Threonine

Threonine, essential amino acid for hair/skin; blended with other AAs for balance.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Proline

Proline, amino-acid humectant; boosts stratum corneum hydration, stable at pH 4-5.

Sodium Lactate

Sodium lactate for moisturizing and exfoliation; pH buffering agent

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Acorus Calamus Root Extract

Soothing and perfuming extract; volatile oils may cause sensitization at low levels

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Aloe vera leaf extract for soothing and humectant; monitor polysaccharide level and endotoxins

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Plant extract, soothing properties; contains natural allergens, high levels may irritate.

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract

Antimicrobial and antioxidant extract; strictly limit dosage due to potential irritation

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Coconut fruit extract at 0.1–5%; moisturizing, caution for oily skin at high levels

Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract

Myrrh resin extract, anti-inflammatory/soothing; natural impurities, verify allergenicity and stability

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Olive oil, rich in squalene and oleic acid; moderate comedogenicity, caution for oily skin.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Plant seed oil for skin conditioning; rich in fatty acids, prone to oxidation, requires antioxidants.

Sodium Gluconate

Mild chelator, aids skin conditioning; typically used at low levels as auxiliary

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Macadamia oil, rich in palmitoleic, good penetration; light feel; non-comedogenic.

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Jojoba oil rich in unsaturated fats; good penetration, non-comedogenic, prone to oxidation requiring antioxidants

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Film-forming conditioner for hair/skin protection; hydrophobic, pair with water phase

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

Mild emulsifier for low-foam systems; suitable for sensitive skin.

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