sooryehan The Black Exopert Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Glycerin
3. Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate
4. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
5. C10-18 Triglycerides
6. Pentylene Glycol
7. Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
8. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
9. Behenyl Alcohol
10. 1,2-Hexanediol
11. Lecithin
12. Serine
13. Glycine Soja Seed Extract
14. Butylene Glycol
15. Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
16. Tocopheryl Acetate
17. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
18. Dipropylene Glycol
19. Xanthan Gum
20. Adenosine
21. Sclerotium Gum
22. Sodium Hyaluronate
23. Tocopherol
24. Trehalose
25. Allantoin
26. Carnosine
27. Glycine Soja Oil
28. Trisodium EDTA
29. Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
30. Dextrin
31. Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
32. Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment
33. Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
34. Arginine
35. Citric Acid
36. Yeast Beta-Glucan
37. Sodium Chloride
38. Methionine
39. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
40. Paeonol
41. Caprylyl Glycol
42. Disodium Phosphate
43. Sodium Phosphate
44. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
45. Fragrance
46. Linalool
47. Limonene
48. Citronellol
49. Geraniol

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains mineral oilContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl OlivateC10-18 Triglycerides

SKIN CONDITIONING

Butyrospermum Parkii ButterPentylene GlycolCamellia Oleifera Seed Oil

BINDING

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Other ingredients

Behenyl Alcohol1,2-HexanediolLecithinSerineGlycine Soja Seed ExtractButylene GlycolHydrogenated Olive Oil UnsaponifiablesTocopheryl AcetateDipotassium GlycyrrhizateDipropylene GlycolXanthan GumAdenosineSclerotium GumSodium HyaluronateTocopherolTrehaloseAllantoinCarnosineGlycine Soja OilTrisodium EDTAGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractDextrinTheobroma Cacao Seed ExtractAureobasidium Pullulans FermentAlbizia Julibrissin Bark ExtractArginineCitric AcidYeast Beta-GlucanSodium ChlorideMethionineAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9PaeonolCaprylyl GlycolDisodium PhosphateSodium PhosphateAcetyl Hexapeptide-8FragranceLinaloolLimoneneCitronellolGeraniol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Emollient ester and emulsifier; provides silky feel in O/W systems, generally mild and non-irritating

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

C10-18 Triglycerides

Mixture of C10-18 triglycerides for emolliency, conditioning, and solvency; low comedogenic risk but occlusive.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil

Camellia seed oil rich in oleic acid and antioxidants for moisturizing; low allergen risk

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Water-soluble film former for styling and thickening; check residual acryloyl chloride for sensitive skin.

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Serine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; high water solubility, compatible with sensitive skin.

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Soybean extract for skin conditioning; low allergen risk, monitor batch protein variability.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Oleic unsaponifiables (squalane/phytane); heavy-duty emollients suitable for dry, damaged skin repair

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Dipropylene Glycol

Solvent for essential oils; better humectancy than PEG

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Sclerotium Gum

Non-ionic gum for gels; neutral pH, requires dissolution via heating or fine milling

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Trehalose

Trehalose; mild humectant and stabilizer for proteins/actives; hygroscopic, light skin feel.

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Carnosine

Dipeptide skin conditioner with antioxidant and buffering properties; used in synergy with other actives.

Glycine Soja Oil

Soybean oil emollient; prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants; suitable for dry skin

Trisodium EDTA

Metal chelator improving formula stability and synergizing preservatives; used at very low levels (<0.1%), control heavy metals.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Liquorice root extract for soothing and brightening; batch variability, watch polyphenol interactions

Dextrin

Polymer thickener and binder from starch fermentation; biodegradable, hygroscopic, may affect powder flow

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Cacao seed extract; polyphenols. Antioxidant and conditioning, hygroscopic, store in dry conditions.

Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment

Microbial fermentation filtrate for conditioning; check pH and microbial limits.

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Albizia bark extract; natural fragrance and conditioner, scent may need masking

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Yeast Beta-Glucan

Yeast beta-glucan for barrier and hydration at 0.1–1%; high viscosity, dilute before use.

Sodium Chloride

Salt for gel viscosity control; used as precipitant in soaps

Methionine

Sulfur-containing amino acid for hair and skin conditioning; often used in combinations with other amino acids.

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Not decoded yet

Paeonol

Not decoded yet

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Disodium Phosphate

Phosphate buffer for pH adjustment and preservation; water-soluble; high levels may irritate mucous membranes.

Sodium Phosphate

Phosphate buffer and anti-seborrheic; pH regulator, aids sebum control, high levels are irritating

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl hexapeptide-8; signal peptide, low concentration, used for firming and hydration, low irritancy.

Fragrance

Fragrance; concentration must control allergen risk, label specific components

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Citronellol

Citronellol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Geraniol

Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

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