sesderma Acglicolic Liposomal Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycolic Acid
3. Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
4. Hydrogenated Polydecene
5. Ceteth-20
6. Propanediol
7. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
8. Glyceryl Stearate
9. Cyclopentasiloxane
10. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
11. Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate
12. Alcohol
13. Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
14. Ammonium Hydroxide
15. Ascorbyl Glucoside
16. Benzyl Salicylate
17. Boswellia Serrata Gum
18. Carbomer
19. Ceramide AP
20. Ceramide EOP
21. Ceramide NG
22. Ceramide NP
23. Cetearyl Alcohol
24. Cholesterol
25. Cyclohexasiloxane
26. Dipropylene Glycol
27. Disodium EDTA
28. Ergothioneine
29. Ethylparaben
30. Glycine Soja Extract
31. Hexyl Cinnamal
32. Lecithin
33. Limonene
34. Methylparaben
35. Parfum
36. Phenoxyethanol
37. Phytosphingosine
38. Polysorbate 20
39. Propylene Glycol
40. Propylparaben
41. Sodium Chloride
42. Sodium Hyaluronate
43. Sodium Hydroxide
44. Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
45. Tocopheryl Acetate
46. Xanthan Gum

Highlights

Free of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains siliconesContains fragranceContains mineral oilContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergensContains animal-derivedContains parabensContains essential oils

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

BUFFERING

Glycolic Acid

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl SilaneHydrogenated PolydeceneGlyceryl StearateCyclopentasiloxane

ANTIMICROBIAL

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Other ingredients

Ceteth-20Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerEryngium Maritimum Callus Culture FiltrateAlcoholAlpha-Isomethyl IononeAmmonium HydroxideAscorbyl GlucosideBenzyl SalicylateBoswellia Serrata GumCarbomerCeramide APCeramide EOPCeramide NGCeramide NPCetearyl AlcoholCholesterolCyclohexasiloxaneDipropylene GlycolDisodium EDTAErgothioneineEthylparabenGlycine Soja ExtractHexyl CinnamalLecithinLimoneneMethylparabenParfumPhenoxyethanolPhytosphingosinePolysorbate 20Propylene GlycolPropylparabenSodium ChlorideSodium HyaluronateSodium HydroxideSodium Lauroyl LactylateTocopheryl AcetateXanthan Gum

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid for exfoliation; requires buffering at concentrations >10%, avoid combination with other acids.

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Silicone modifier for smoothness; contains PEG, used for foam and cleansing, manage PEG residuals

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Hydrogenated polydecene, light mineral oil alternative, low comedogenic; silky, non-greasy.

Ceteth-20

Not decoded yet

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

C12-15 alkyl benzoate; emollient, emulsifier, and antistatic; aids stability and smoothness, moderate low comedogenicity.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclopentasiloxane for emollient/solvent; volatile silicone, smooth feel, check VOC regulations.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Cationic polymer providing suspension, thickening, and conditioning; often paired with anionic thickening systems, low usage, imparts slip.

Eryngium Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate

Not decoded yet

Alcohol

Ethanol for solubility/drying at 5-15%; high conc. is drying/irritating, avoid lip/eye, low residue, balance with humectants.

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Vanilla-like fragrance ingredient; one of EU 26 allergens, caution advised for sensitive skin.

Ammonium Hydroxide

Strong alkaline pH adjuster; use in low concentrations to neutralize acids, avoid direct mixing with strong acids.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Stable Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant; more stable than pure ascorbic acid, releases activity slowly in neutral/basic conditions.

Benzyl Salicylate

UV absorber/light stabilizer, restricted in EU; potential sensitizer, risk assessment needed.

Boswellia Serrata Gum

Not decoded yet

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Ceramide AP

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Ceramide NG

Skin lipid repair ingredient to restore barrier; non-irritating, suitable for sensitive and compromised skin

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Cyclohexasiloxane

Volatile cyclic silicone evaporating without residue; ensure compliance with EU limits on cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, use octamer

Dipropylene Glycol

Solvent for essential oils; better humectancy than PEG

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Ergothioneine

Ergothioneine, potent antioxidant; 0.01–0.1%, water-soluble, synergizes with Vit C/E.

Ethylparaben

Paraben preservative; EU restricted, watch total load and sensitive skin reactions

Glycine Soja Extract

Contains soy protein for skin conditioning; soy protein may be allergenic, patch test for sensitive skin.

Hexyl Cinnamal

Common fragrance component (jasmine/vanilla note); listed EU allergen, requires labeling at >10ppm (leave-on).

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Methylparaben

Preservative, narrow spectrum; often combined, check allergen risk and regulatory limits.

Parfum

Fragrance for scent; may contain allergens, caution for sensitive skin, full labeling required.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine barrier repair ingredient, 0.1–1%; water-soluble, good for dry skin.

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Propylparaben

Medium-chain preservative; restricted use, pH-sensitive efficacy.

Sodium Chloride

Salt for gel viscosity control; used as precipitant in soaps

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Mild emulsifier at 1–5%; suitable for sensitive skin, mind cationic surfactant compatibility

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

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