melume The Rich Face Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua [Water]
2. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
3. Glycerin
4. Cetearyl Olivate
5. Undecane
6. Squalane
7. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
8. Sucrose Stearate
9. Methylheptylglycerin
10. Sorbitan Olivate
11. Behenyl Alcohol
12. Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
13. Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
14. Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
15. Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
16. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
17. Sodium Hyaluronate
18. Biosaccharide Gum-1
19. Tocopherol
20. Ascorbyl Palmitate
21. Lecithin
22. Glyceryl Oleate
23. Sclerotium Gum
24. Chondrus Crispus
25. Tridecane
26. Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil
27. Glyceryl Stearate
28. Xanthan Gum
29. Citric Acid
30. Sodium Hydroxide
31. Mica
32. Caramel
33. Maltodextrin
34. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer
35. Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
36. Parfum [Fragrance]
37. Linalool
38. Citronellol
39. Ci 77491

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains mineral oilContains animal-derivedContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Cetearyl OlivateUndecaneSqualaneSucrose Stearate

SKIN CONDITIONING

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Sorbitan Olivate

Other ingredients

Aqua [Water]MethylheptylglycerinBehenyl AlcoholPlukenetia Volubilis Seed OilEchium Plantagineum Seed OilCucumis Melo Fruit ExtractMauritia Flexuosa Fruit OilHelianthus Annuus Seed OilSodium HyaluronateBiosaccharide Gum-1TocopherolAscorbyl PalmitateLecithinGlyceryl OleateSclerotium GumChondrus CrispusTridecaneHydrogenated Rapeseed OilGlyceryl StearateXanthan GumCitric AcidSodium HydroxideMicaCaramelMaltodextrinHydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin CrosspolymerTetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateParfum [Fragrance]LinaloolCitronellolCi 77491

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua [Water]

Not decoded yet

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Cetearyl Olivate

Natural emulsifier pairing with glucosides; skin-like feel, biodegradable, prone to oxidation requiring light protection

Undecane

Undecane; light aliphatic hydrocarbon emollient; high volatility, pair with occlusives, flammable

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Sucrose Stearate

Succrose ester emulsifier/emolient with cleansing properties; HLB determines emulsion type.

Methylheptylglycerin

Not decoded yet

Sorbitan Olivate

O/W emulsifier, HLB ~15, requires ionic co-surfactant, potential sensitizer.

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

Inca Inchi oil; Omega-9 rich emollient. Use <5%; pair with antioxidants to prevent oxidation.

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Linoleic-rich seed oil; high oxidation risk, requires antioxidants and light protection to maintain stability

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Melon fruit extract rich in antioxidants and polysaccharides for soothing and hydration; natural, may contain allergens, test for sensitization.

Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil

Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil; rich in palmoleic and unsaturated fatty acids; moisturizes and repairs barrier; heavy oil, requires emulsification.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Biosaccharide Gum-1, fermented colloid for hydration and soothing, low comedogenic.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl palmitate, lipophilic Vit C ester, antioxidant; oxidizes, needs light/air protection.

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Glyceryl Oleate

Glyceride-based emulsifier and emolient with mild perfuming properties.

Sclerotium Gum

Non-ionic gum for gels; neutral pH, requires dissolution via heating or fine milling

Chondrus Crispus

Crisp chondrus seaweed extract; often used as thickener or skin conditioner; labeled as fragrance or conditioner, check formulation context.

Tridecane

Tridecane, a long-chain alkane acting as emollient and solvent; petrochemical-derived, inert and low toxicity.

Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil

Hydrogenated plant oil/wax; occlusive, potential clogging risk at high doses, match melting point

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Mica

Mineral colorant for pearlescence; heavy metal screening required

Caramel

Colorant for brown shades; some processes involve sulfites, check specs.

Maltodextrin

High-MW multifunctional excipient for thickening, binding, and emulsion stability; inert, non-penetrating conditioning.

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer

Not decoded yet

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Gluconate diacetate tetrasodium chelator; replaces EDTA, improves stability against metals

Parfum [Fragrance]

Not decoded yet

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Citronellol

Citronellol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Ci 77491

Iron oxides red; physical pigment. Coloring and photo-protective, stable and non-irritating.

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