rationale #4 The Cleanser

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Rosa Damascena Flower Water
2. Propanediol
3. Cetearyl Alcohol
4. Ceteareth-20
5. Glycerin
6. Tocopherol
7. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
8. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
9. Aqua
10. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
11. Trideceth-9
12. Tocotrienols
13. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
14. Santalum Spicatum Seed Oil
15. Linoleic Acid
16. Citric Acid
17. Citrus Aurantium Amara Fruit Extract
18. Malic Acid
19. Propylene Glycol
20. Butylene Glycol
21. Sodium Hydroxide
22. Elaeis Guineensis Oil
23. Linolenic Acid
24. Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate
25. 7-Dehydrocholesterol
26. Ceteareth-25
27. Phenoxyethanol
28. Hydrogenated Lecithin
29. Sorbitol
30. Magnesium Aspartate
31. Zinc Gluconate
32. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
33. Ethylhexylglycerin
34. Cetyl Alcohol
35. Panthenol
36. Datem
37. Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
38. Retinyl Palmitate
39. Zea Mays Oil
40. Banksia Serrata Flower Extract
41. Barklya Syringifolia Flower/Leaf Extract
42. Brachychiton Acerifolius Flower Extract
43. Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract
44. Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract
45. Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
46. Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
47. Santalum Acuminatum Fruit Extract
48. Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract
49. Telopea Speciosissima Flower/Leaf Extract
50. Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
51. Behenic Acid
52. Calcium Gluconate
53. Ceramide NP
54. Cholesterol
55. Copper Gluconate
56. Potassium Sorbate
57. Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
58. Ceramide NS
59. Squalane
60. Glycine
61. Sodium Benzoate
62. Ascorbic Acid
63. Silica
64. Serine
65. Glutamic Acid
66. Ceramide AP
67. Ceramide EOP
68. Ceramide EOS
69. Aspartic Acid
70. Leucine
71. Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
72. Caprooyl Sphingosine
73. Alanine
74. Lysine
75. Arginine
76. Tyrosine
77. Phenylalanine
78. Proline
79. Threonine
80. Valine
81. Isoleucine
82. Histidine
83. Limonene

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oilsContains mineral oilContains PEGContains animal-derived

Key ingredients

FRAGRANCE

Rosa Damascena Flower WaterCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

SOLVENT

PropanediolAqua

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Cetearyl Alcohol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

ANTIOXIDANT

Tocopherol

SKIN CONDITIONING

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Other ingredients

Ceteareth-20PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilTrideceth-9TocotrienolsHelianthus Annuus Seed OilSantalum Spicatum Seed OilLinoleic AcidCitric AcidCitrus Aurantium Amara Fruit ExtractMalic AcidPropylene GlycolButylene GlycolSodium HydroxideElaeis Guineensis OilLinolenic AcidSodium Starch Octenylsuccinate7-DehydrocholesterolCeteareth-25PhenoxyethanolHydrogenated LecithinSorbitolMagnesium AspartateZinc GluconateTetrahexyldecyl AscorbateEthylhexylglycerinCetyl AlcoholPanthenolDatemDaucus Carota Sativa Root ExtractRetinyl PalmitateZea Mays OilBanksia Serrata Flower ExtractBarklya Syringifolia Flower/Leaf ExtractBrachychiton Acerifolius Flower ExtractCitrus Australasica Fruit ExtractDavidsonia Pruriens Fruit ExtractHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower ExtractMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf ExtractSantalum Acuminatum Fruit ExtractTasmannia Lanceolata Fruit ExtractTelopea Speciosissima Flower/Leaf ExtractTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit ExtractBehenic AcidCalcium GluconateCeramide NPCholesterolCopper GluconatePotassium SorbateRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractCeramide NSSqualaneGlycineSodium BenzoateAscorbic AcidSilicaSerineGlutamic AcidCeramide APCeramide EOPCeramide EOSAspartic AcidLeucineCaprooyl PhytosphingosineCaprooyl SphingosineAlanineLysineArginineTyrosinePhenylalanineProlineThreonineValineIsoleucineHistidineLimonene

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Aromatic hydrosol base; provides scent and conditioning benefits.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Ceteareth-20

Not decoded yet

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sweet orange peel essential oil, citrus aroma; photosensitive, be careful in daytime; irritating at high levels.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Natural humectant and soother with high water activity; requires preservative system, generally well-tolerated

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Solubilizer and emulsifier for oil-soluble ingredients; high concentrations may cause contact dermatitis in sensitive skin.

Trideceth-9

Not decoded yet

Tocotrienols

Vitamin E isomer; potent antioxidant for lipid protection and UV synergy, light and heat sensitive.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Santalum Spicatum Seed Oil

Santalum spicatum seed oil; 0.5–2% oil phase; aromatic emollient, unsaturated fatty acids, store dark, low allergenicity

Linoleic Acid

Essential fatty acid for barrier repair and hydration; oxidizes easily, high levels may be comedogenic

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Citrus Aurantium Amara Fruit Extract

Bitter orange fruit extract, plant conditioner; may contain phototoxic furanocoumarins, use caution in sensitive skin and sun exposure.

Malic Acid

AHA for pH buffering; mild at low conc, risk at high, control pH & total acidity

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Palm oil, emollient occlusive; saturated fats, moderate comedogenic risk.

Linolenic Acid

Omega-6 fatty acid for barrier repair; prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants and low light exposure

Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate

Modified starch for oil absorption/films/thickening, 2–8%; mildew risk in high humidity, needs preservatives.

7-Dehydrocholesterol

Cholesterol derivative for barrier repair and emulsion stability, watch concentration and light exposure.

Ceteareth-25

Not decoded yet

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifier from lecithin; stable, used in powder emulsions

Sorbitol

Polyol humectant with strong hygroscopy; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives; also a solvent or adjuster.

Magnesium Aspartate

Magnesium aspartate; water-soluble chelant/conditioner. Use at 1-2%; check chelation efficiency.

Zinc Gluconate

Chelated zinc salt with antimicrobial and deodorizing effects; used in antiperspirants and oral care; has EU concentration limit.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Lipophilic Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant and brightening; more stable than VC, oil-soluble, must pair with oil phase

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Datem

Not decoded yet

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Carrot root extract with carotenoids; skin conditioning, low photosensitivity, may stain.

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.

Zea Mays Oil

Corn oil; light emollient and stabilizer. Low comedogenic rating (1). Use at 2-5% as carrier.

Banksia Serrata Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Barklya Syringifolia Flower/Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Brachychiton Acerifolius Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Roselle flower extract rich in anthocyanins, used for skin conditioning and antioxidant support

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Tea tree leaf extract for skin conditioning and perfuming; allergen risk requires dilution.

Santalum Acuminatum Fruit Extract

Santalum Album fruit extract, antioxidant-rich; typically for hair care, check allergen labeling

Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Telopea Speciosissima Flower/Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; traditional lightening agent; antioxidant for uneven skin tone.

Behenic Acid

Behenic acid, emulsifier and thickener; high comedogenic rating, limit use on acne-prone skin.

Calcium Gluconate

Chelator and conditioner, improves stability; water-soluble calcium source

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Copper Gluconate

Copper gluconate; trace antioxidant/repair agent. Use <0.05%; high levels cause color change/irritation.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Plant extract containing rosmarinic acid etc., with antioxidant and antimicrobial properties; may contain allergenic fragrances, patch test for sensitive skin, typical concentration <1%.

Ceramide NS

Ceramide NS for barrier repair; gentle and suitable for sensitive or dry skin.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C, potent antioxidant requiring acidic environment for stability; oxidizes and discolors easily, needs light and air protection, concentration 1-10%, pure L-ascorbic acid is more irritating.

Silica

Silica powder at 1–10%; absorbs oil, thickens, provides matte finish, for oil-control products

Serine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; high water solubility, compatible with sensitive skin.

Glutamic Acid

Glutamic acid, non-essential amino acid humectant; high levels can be astringent, buffer needed.

Ceramide AP

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Ceramide EOS

Barrier-repairing ceramide, 0.1–1%; optimal with hydrated lipids, suitable for dry skin

Aspartic Acid

Amino acid humectant and conditioner, common in rinse-off products; low levels mild, high levels may shift pH

Leucine

Amino acid for antistatic and skin/hair conditioning; used at low concentrations.

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Plant-derived biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning.

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning; often formulated with other lipids.

Alanine

Amino acid for antistatic and conditioning; low irritation, slight salty taste at high levels

Lysine

Amino acid conditioner for anti-static hair care; low irritation at typical cosmetic concentrations.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Tyrosine

Amino acid involved in melanin synthesis; used for hair conditioning.

Phenylalanine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning; usually part of a blend, no significant standalone efficacy data

Proline

Proline, amino-acid humectant; boosts stratum corneum hydration, stable at pH 4-5.

Threonine

Threonine, essential amino acid for hair/skin; blended with other AAs for balance.

Valine

Amino acid humectant, common in amino acid cleansers and sprays; mild, suitable for all skin types

Isoleucine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning and antistatic purposes; often blended; check taste if high.

Histidine

Amino acid humectant and antistatic agent; pH-dependent behavior, consider buffering in formulation.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

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