functionalab Retinol 0.5% Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycerin
3. Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
4. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
5. Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
6. Glyceryl Stearate
7. Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
8. Dicaprylyl Carbonate
9. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
10. PEG-100 Stearate
11. Isododecane
12. Glyceryl Dilaurate
13. Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract
14. Steareth-21
15. Tocopheryl Acetate
16. Retinol
17. Behentrimonium Chloride
18. Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
19. Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
20. Methylglucoside Phosphate
21. Cichorium Intybus Root Extract
22. Sodium Butyroyl Hyaluronate
23. Sodium Hydroxide
24. Cholesterol
25. Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
26. Ceramide NP
27. Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
28. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
29. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
30. Cetyl Alcohol
31. Polysorbate 20
32. Steareth-2
33. Caprylyl Glycol
34. PEG-75 Stearate
35. Xanthan Gum
36. Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer
37. Mineral Oil
38. Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
39. Microcrystalline Cellulose
40. Ceteth-20
41. Steareth-20
42. Disodium EDTA
43. Sorbic Acid
44. Cellulose Gum
45. Sucrose Laurate
46. Polysorbate 85
47. Benzoic Acid
48. Dehydroacetic Acid
49. Ethylhexylglycerin
50. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains PEGContains mineral oilContains animal-derivedContains EU-26 allergensContains fragrance

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Vitis Vinifera Seed OilShea Butter Ethyl EstersGlyceryl StearateNeopentyl Glycol DiheptanoateDicaprylyl Carbonate

抗氧化剂

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Other ingredients

Caprylic/Capric TriglyceridePEG-100 StearateIsododecaneGlyceryl DilaurateHydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed ExtractSteareth-21Tocopheryl AcetateRetinolBehentrimonium ChlorideInulin Lauryl CarbamateCopper Lysinate/ProlinateMethylglucoside PhosphateCichorium Intybus Root ExtractSodium Butyroyl HyaluronateSodium HydroxideCholesterolCaprooyl PhytosphingosineCeramide NPRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractButyrospermum Parkii ButterMagnesium Aluminum SilicateCetyl AlcoholPolysorbate 20Steareth-2Caprylyl GlycolPEG-75 StearateXanthan GumAcrylates/Acrylamide CopolymerMineral OilPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateMicrocrystalline CelluloseCeteth-20Steareth-20Disodium EDTASorbic AcidCellulose GumSucrose LauratePolysorbate 85Benzoic AcidDehydroacetic AcidEthylhexylglycerinPhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Grapeseed oil, lightweight emollient and antioxidant; high linoleic acid, suitable for oily and combination skin.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Ethyl ascorbic acid, lipophilic Vit C derivative, antioxidant/whitening; more stable than L-AA, for oil phases

Shea Butter Ethyl Esters

Shea-derived esters for smooth emolliency; more stable than raw shea butter.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Light emollient ester, non-greasy, improves product spreadability.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Light emollient solvent at 5–15%; mineral oil-free, refreshing feel, low sensitization.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Isododecane

Synthetic hydrocarbon solvent providing dry, silky skin feel; high volatility, non-comedogenic, common in sunscreens and foundations, usage 5-30%.

Glyceryl Dilaurate

Gentle emulsifier and emollient, suitable for infant/sensitive products; alternative to classic emulsifiers.

Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Mulberry seed extract; small proteins enhance penetration and film-forming, acting as emulsifier stabilizer. Suitable for sensitive repair; check charge interactions.

Steareth-21

Not decoded yet

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Behentrimonium Chloride

Cationic conditioner and preservative; used within restricted limits, high doses may irritate.

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Modified inulin surfactant, mild emulsification/cleansing; prebiotic, reduced irritation

Copper Lysinate/Prolinate

Copper amino acid chelate; claims collagen support, use at 0.01–0.05%, may discolor

Methylglucoside Phosphate

Modified sugar-based surfactant acting as mild conditioning agent; performance affected by hard water, use with chelating agents.

Cichorium Intybus Root Extract

Chicory root extract with fragrance and skin-conditioning roles; plant-derived, confirm extraction process.

Sodium Butyroyl Hyaluronate

Not decoded yet

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Plant-derived biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Plant extract containing rosmarinic acid etc., with antioxidant and antimicrobial properties; may contain allergenic fragrances, patch test for sensitive skin, typical concentration <1%.

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Oil-absorbing powder at 5–20%; for pressed/powder makeup, high levels may feel heavy

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Steareth-2

Not decoded yet

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

PEG-75 Stearate

PEG-75 stearate, non-ionic emulsifier/thickener; PEG-based, check for 1,4-dioxane limits, not used in some markets.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer

Not decoded yet

Mineral Oil

Occlusive emollient preventing water loss; must use high-purity medical grade to avoid impurities.

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

High-efficiency lipid-soluble antioxidant preventing oil rancidity; very low usage, typically 0.05-0.1%, ensure even distribution, avoid metal-catalyzed oxidation.

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Cellulose derivative for anti-caking, oil absorption, and physical sunscreen carrier; water-insoluble, affects texture at high levels.

Ceteth-20

Not decoded yet

Steareth-20

Not decoded yet

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Sorbic Acid

Preservative effective at low pH, often combined with sorbate salts; check regulatory limits

Cellulose Gum

Cellulose gum, water-soluble thickener/stabilizer; may destabilize with cationics, hydrate first.

Sucrose Laurate

Sucrose laurate; mild emulsifier and detergent; used for thickening and emulsifying creams; may cause mild irritation.

Polysorbate 85

Not decoded yet

Benzoic Acid

Preservative and pH adjuster at 0.1–0.5%; low water solubility, best in acidic media, irritant at high levels.

Dehydroacetic Acid

Broad-spectrum preservative for acidic and oil-based systems; has concentration limits, requires challenge testing.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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