functionalab Retinol + Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycerin
3. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
4. Glyceryl Stearate
5. Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
6. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
7. Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
8. Dicaprylyl Carbonate
9. PEG-100 Stearate
10. Isododecane
11. Cetyl Alcohol
12. Glyceryl Dilaurate
13. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
14. Polysorbate 20
15. Retinol
16. Steareth-21
17. Tocopheryl Acetate
18. Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
19. Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates
20. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
21. Cichorium Intybus Root Extract
22. Sodium Hydroxide
23. Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
24. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
25. Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
26. Steareth-2
27. Ethylhexylglycerin
28. PEG-75 Stearate
29. Butylene Glycol
30. Caprylyl Glycol
31. Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
32. Xanthan Gum
33. Ceteth-20
34. Steareth-20
35. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
36. Behentrimonium Chloride
37. Sucrose Laurate
38. Sorbic Acid
39. Benzoic Acid
40. Dehydroacetic Acid
41. Disodium EDTA
42. Dextran
43. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
44. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains mineral oilContains essential oilsContains parabensContains EU-26 allergensContains animal-derivedContains fragrance

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

DENATURANT

Glycerin

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Glyceryl StearateNeopentyl Glycol DiheptanoateShea Butter Ethyl EstersDicaprylyl Carbonate

抗氧化剂

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Other ingredients

PEG-100 StearateIsododecaneCetyl AlcoholGlyceryl DilaurateMagnesium Aluminum SilicatePolysorbate 20RetinolSteareth-21Tocopheryl AcetateVitis Vinifera Seed OilDisodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl PhosphatesPalmitoyl Tripeptide-8Cichorium Intybus Root ExtractSodium HydroxideRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractButyrospermum Parkii ButterInulin Lauryl CarbamateSteareth-2EthylhexylglycerinPEG-75 StearateButylene GlycolCaprylyl GlycolPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateXanthan GumCeteth-20Steareth-20Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerBehentrimonium ChlorideSucrose LaurateSorbic AcidBenzoic AcidDehydroacetic AcidDisodium EDTADextranCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilPhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Light emollient ester, non-greasy, improves product spreadability.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Ethyl ascorbic acid, lipophilic Vit C derivative, antioxidant/whitening; more stable than L-AA, for oil phases

Shea Butter Ethyl Esters

Shea-derived esters for smooth emolliency; more stable than raw shea butter.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Light emollient solvent at 5–15%; mineral oil-free, refreshing feel, low sensitization.

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Isododecane

Synthetic hydrocarbon solvent providing dry, silky skin feel; high volatility, non-comedogenic, common in sunscreens and foundations, usage 5-30%.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Glyceryl Dilaurate

Gentle emulsifier and emollient, suitable for infant/sensitive products; alternative to classic emulsifiers.

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Oil-absorbing powder at 5–20%; for pressed/powder makeup, high levels may feel heavy

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Steareth-21

Not decoded yet

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Grapeseed oil, lightweight emollient and antioxidant; high linoleic acid, suitable for oily and combination skin.

Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates

Gentle two-phase/ionic cleanser & conditioner, vitamin E phosphate; mild but needs compatibility testing

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 signaling peptide; 0.1–1%, aqueous stability watch

Cichorium Intybus Root Extract

Chicory root extract with fragrance and skin-conditioning roles; plant-derived, confirm extraction process.

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Plant extract containing rosmarinic acid etc., with antioxidant and antimicrobial properties; may contain allergenic fragrances, patch test for sensitive skin, typical concentration <1%.

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Modified inulin surfactant, mild emulsification/cleansing; prebiotic, reduced irritation

Steareth-2

Not decoded yet

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

PEG-75 Stearate

PEG-75 stearate, non-ionic emulsifier/thickener; PEG-based, check for 1,4-dioxane limits, not used in some markets.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

High-efficiency lipid-soluble antioxidant preventing oil rancidity; very low usage, typically 0.05-0.1%, ensure even distribution, avoid metal-catalyzed oxidation.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Ceteth-20

Not decoded yet

Steareth-20

Not decoded yet

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Crosspolymer for thickening/film; needs neutralization to pH 7-8 to hydrate, check ion strength.

Behentrimonium Chloride

Cationic conditioner and preservative; used within restricted limits, high doses may irritate.

Sucrose Laurate

Sucrose laurate; mild emulsifier and detergent; used for thickening and emulsifying creams; may cause mild irritation.

Sorbic Acid

Preservative effective at low pH, often combined with sorbate salts; check regulatory limits

Benzoic Acid

Preservative and pH adjuster at 0.1–0.5%; low water solubility, best in acidic media, irritant at high levels.

Dehydroacetic Acid

Broad-spectrum preservative for acidic and oil-based systems; has concentration limits, requires challenge testing.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Dextran

Polysaccharide for binding; water-soluble requires preservation.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sweet orange peel essential oil, citrus aroma; photosensitive, be careful in daytime; irritating at high levels.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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