helia-d Cell Concept Hydrating Serum
helia-d Helia-D Cell Concept Hydrating Serum lists 24 ingredients on its label, 24 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.
Ingredients overview
Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.
Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.
- Aqua
- Niacinamide
- Glycerin
- Dimethicone
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
- Butylene Glycol
- Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
- Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
- Phenoxyethanol
- Polysorbate 20
- Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
- Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
- Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
- Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
- Lecithin
- Parfum
- Sodium Hyaluronate
- Tocopheryl Acetate
- Ethylhexylglycerin
- Citric Acid
- Sodium Benzoate
- Potassium Sorbate
- Ci 42090
Highlights
Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains siliconesContains PEGContains fragranceContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergens
Key ingredients
- SOLVENT
- Aqua
- SMOOTHING
- Niacinamide
- DENATURANT
- Glycerin
- ANTIFOAMING
- Dimethicone
- FRAGRANCE
- Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideAloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
- HUMECTANT
- Butylene Glycol
- SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
- Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Other ingredients
Sodium Acrylates CopolymerPhenoxyethanolPolysorbate 20Coco-Caprylate/CapratePrunus Armeniaca Kernel OilSimmondsia Chinensis Seed OilAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerLecithinParfumSodium HyaluronateTocopheryl AcetateEthylhexylglycerinCitric AcidSodium BenzoatePotassium SorbateCi 42090
Skim through
| Ingredient | What it does | Irr. · Com. | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aqua | SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Niacinamide | SMOOTHING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Glycerin | DENATURANT, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, ORAL CARE, SKIN PROTECTING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Dimethicone | ANTIFOAMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | FRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, PERFUMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water | FRAGRANCE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Butylene Glycol | HUMECTANT, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 1 | Green |
| Sodium Acrylates Copolymer | BINDING, FILM FORMING, OPACIFYING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Phenoxyethanol | ANTIMICROBIAL, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/29 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Polysorbate 20 | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Coco-Caprylate/Caprate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil | FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 2 | Green |
| Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer | EMULSION STABILISING, FILM FORMING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Lecithin | ANTISTATIC, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Parfum | FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING | 2 · 0 | Yellow |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Tocopheryl Acetate | ANTIOXIDANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Ethylhexylglycerin | DEODORANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Citric Acid | BUFFERING, CHELATING, FRAGRANCE | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Benzoate | ANTICORROSIVE, FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/1 | 0 · – | Yellow |
| Potassium Sorbate | FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/4 | 0 · – | Yellow |
| Ci 42090 | COLORANT, HAIR DYEING · 限制 IV/63 (CI 42090) III/190 (Acid Blue 9; Acid Blue 9 Ammonium Salt; Acid Blue 9 Aluminum Lake) | 0 · 0 | Green |
Ingredients explained
- Aqua
- Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical
- Niacinamide
- Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity
- Glycerin
- Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives
- Dimethicone
- Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin
- Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
- Aloe juice, humectant and fragrance; perishable, requires preservatives, prone to browning.
- Butylene Glycol
- Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel
- Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
- Cetearyl ester for emollience/stabilizing; light texture, low comedogenicity, suitable for oily skin.
- Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
- Water-soluble film former for styling and thickening; check residual acryloyl chloride for sensitive skin.
- Phenoxyethanol
- Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin
- Polysorbate 20
- Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.
- Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
- Lightweight mid-chain ester, quick spreading, suitable for oily skin, non-comedogenic.
- Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
- Plant oil for emollience and nutrition; contains proteins that may cause sensitivity, use caution in sensitive skin
- Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
- Common in dry/damaged hair; superior penetration vs mineral oils, low comedogenic risk, poor oxidative stability.
- Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
- Crosspolymer for thickening/film; needs neutralization to pH 7-8 to hydrate, check ion strength.
- Lecithin
- Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.
- Parfum
- Fragrance for scent; may contain allergens, caution for sensitive skin, full labeling required.
- Sodium Hyaluronate
- Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture
- Tocopheryl Acetate
- Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light
- Ethylhexylglycerin
- Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel
- Citric Acid
- Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH
- Sodium Benzoate
- Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates
- Potassium Sorbate
- Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate
- Ci 42090
- Acid Blue 9 lake; for coloring and brow tints. Non-permanent hair dye, watch for lake precipitation and batch shade variance.
Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-19. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page
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