dermalogica Clearing Defense SPF30

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water/Aqua/Eau
2. Homosalate
3. Octocrylene
4. Ethylhexyl Salicylate
5. Butylene Glycol
6. Silica
7. Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
8. Caprylyl Methicone
9. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
10. Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
11. Dimethyl Capramide
12. Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
13. Saccharide Isomerate
14. Tapioca Starch
15. Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil
16. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
17. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
18. Salix Alba Bark Extract
19. Terpineol
20. Thymol
21. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
22. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
23. Tocopherol
24. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
25. Arachidyl Alcohol
26. Glyceryl Stearate SE
27. PEG-100 Stearate
28. Behenyl Alcohol
29. Benzyl Alcohol
30. Xanthan Gum
31. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
32. Arachidyl Glucoside
33. Ethylhexylglycerin
34. Tocopheryl Acetate
35. Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
36. Citric Acid
37. Sodium Citrate
38. Sodium Hydroxide
39. Linalool
40. Limonene
41. Geraniol
42. Citronellol
43. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains EU-26 allergensContains siliconesContains PEGContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains animal-derivedContains alcohol

Key ingredients

溶剂

Water/Aqua/Eau

FRAGRANCE

Homosalate

LIGHT STABILIZER

OctocryleneEthylhexyl SalicylateButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

ABRASIVE

Silica

SKIN CONDITIONING

Caprylyl Methicone

Other ingredients

C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateVp/Eicosene CopolymerDimethyl CapramidePolyglyceryl-2 StearateSaccharide IsomerateTapioca StarchCoriandrum Sativum Fruit OilCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractSodium Ascorbyl PhosphateSalix Alba Bark ExtractTerpineolThymolCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilDipotassium GlycyrrhizateTocopherolPotassium Cetyl PhosphateArachidyl AlcoholGlyceryl Stearate SEPEG-100 StearateBehenyl AlcoholBenzyl AlcoholXanthan GumAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerArachidyl GlucosideEthylhexylglycerinTocopheryl AcetateTrisodium Ethylenediamine DisuccinateCitric AcidSodium CitrateSodium HydroxideLinaloolLimoneneGeraniolCitronellolPhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water/Aqua/Eau

Primary aqueous solvent and carrier; no specific incompatibilities, focus on microbial stability.

Homosalate

UVB sunscreen agent, often combined with others; stable but migratory; ensure regulatory compliance.

Octocrylene

UV-B absorber and photostabilizer; has concentration limits, consider potential coral toxicity and allergenicity for specific groups.

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl salicylate, UVB absorber; volatile, requires combination with UVA filters for broad spectrum.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Silica

Silica powder at 1–10%; absorbs oil, thickens, provides matte finish, for oil-control products

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

High-potency UVA filter (Parsol MXX); requires stabilizers and UVB blockers.

Caprylyl Methicone

Volatile silicone, fresh feel, does not absorb oil, used in foundations and cushions.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

C12-15 alkyl benzoate; emollient, emulsifier, and antistatic; aids stability and smoothness, moderate low comedogenicity.

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Water-soluble film former and thickener; no known irritancy or comedogenic issues.

Dimethyl Capramide

Not decoded yet

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Polyglyceryl ester emulsifier; mild, non-ionic, suitable for O/W emulsions with good stability.

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Tapioca Starch

Tapioca starch; powder thickener/oil absorbent; inert, mild comed risk at high conc

Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil

Coriander seed oil, essential oil fragrance containing allergens; keep concentration below 0.1%, caution for sensitive skin and pregnant women.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Vitamin C derivative antioxidant at 0.5–2%; light-sensitive, requires opaque packaging

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Contains natural salicylic acid precursors, mild exfoliating and antibacterial; may irritate at high levels; avoid in sensitive skin.

Terpineol

Terpineol providing herbal scent with mild preservative synergy; allergen ingredient, high dose may cause dermatitis.

Thymol

Phenolic antimicrobial and fragrance; irritating at high levels, use trace amounts, allergen risk.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sweet orange peel essential oil, citrus aroma; photosensitive, be careful in daytime; irritating at high levels.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Cetyl phosphate potassium, O/W emulsifier; pH-sensitive, often requires buffering.

Arachidyl Alcohol

Waxy emulsion stabilizer and thickener, often paired with cetearyl alcohol; heavy feel, good for creams

Glyceryl Stearate SE

Emulsifier at 1–3%; oil-phase ingredient, easy emulsification, low sensitization.

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Behenyl Alcohol

Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.

Benzyl Alcohol

Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Crosspolymer for thickening/film; needs neutralization to pH 7-8 to hydrate, check ion strength.

Arachidyl Glucoside

Mild non-ionic emulsifier and emollient, PEG-free; co-soluble with stearoyl lactylates

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Mild chelator replacing EDTA; water-soluble, very low irritation, stabilizes metal ions

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Sodium Citrate

Sodium citrate for buffering and chelating; adjust pH, careful with strong acid reactions.

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Geraniol

Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Citronellol

Citronellol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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