aesop Lucent Facial Concentrate
aesop Aesop Lucent Facial Concentrate lists 25 ingredients on its label, 25 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.
Ingredients overview
Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.
Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.
- Water
- Glycerin
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
- Niacinamide
- Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
- Phenoxyethanol
- Citric Acid
- Xanthan Gum
- Sodium Gluconate
- Sodium Dehydroacetate
- Bisabolol
- Polysorbate 20
- Boswellia Carterii Oil
- Fusanus Spicatus Wood Oil
- Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
- Biosaccharide Gum-1
- Sodium Carrageenan
- Glyceryl Caprylate
- Sodium Anisate
- Sodium Levulinate
- Sea Salt
- D-Limonene
- Citronellol
- Farnesol
- Geraniol
Highlights
Free of alcoholFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains mineral oilContains PEGContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains parabens
Formulation view Features a dual-action brightening system of niacinamide and water-soluble vitamin C derivative (SAP) over a hyaluronic acid base. The minimal formula uses xanthan gum for texture and includes specific essential oils. Best for oily or mixed skin seeking antioxidant benefits. Factory note: Both actives are highly light-sensitive, necessitating strict opaque or light-blocking packaging to prevent degradation.
Key ingredients
- ANTIPLAQUE
- Water
- DENATURANT
- Glycerin
- ANTIOXIDANT
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
- SMOOTHING
- Niacinamide
- SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING
- Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
- ANTIMICROBIAL
- Phenoxyethanol
- BUFFERING
- Citric Acid
- BINDING
- Xanthan Gum
Other ingredients
Sodium GluconateSodium DehydroacetateBisabololPolysorbate 20Boswellia Carterii OilFusanus Spicatus Wood OilRosa Damascena Flower OilBiosaccharide Gum-1Sodium CarrageenanGlyceryl CaprylateSodium AnisateSodium LevulinateSea SaltD-LimoneneCitronellolFarnesolGeraniol
Skim through
| Ingredient | What it does | Irr. · Com. | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water | ANTIPLAQUE, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Glycerin | DENATURANT, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, ORAL CARE, SKIN PROTECTING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate | ANTIOXIDANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Niacinamide | SMOOTHING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 1 · 2 | Green |
| Phenoxyethanol | ANTIMICROBIAL, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/29 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Citric Acid | BUFFERING, CHELATING, FRAGRANCE | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Xanthan Gum | BINDING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, EMULSION STABILISING, GEL FORMING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Gluconate | CHELATING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Dehydroacetate | PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/13 | — | Yellow |
| Bisabolol | FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOOTHING | 0 · – | Green |
| Polysorbate 20 | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Boswellia Carterii Oil | FRAGRANCE, TONIC | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Fusanus Spicatus Wood Oil | FRAGRANCE | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Rosa Damascena Flower Oil | FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING · 限制 III/366 | 1 · – | Green |
| Biosaccharide Gum-1 | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Carrageenan | ANTISTATIC, BINDING, EMULSION STABILISING, FILM FORMING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Glyceryl Caprylate | DEODORANT, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Anisate | ANTIMICROBIAL, FRAGRANCE, FLAVOURING, pH ADJUSTERS | 1 · – | Green |
| Sodium Levulinate | SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sea Salt | ABRASIVE, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 1 · 0 | Green |
| D-Limonene | 香精, 皮肤调理剂 | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Citronellol | PERFUMING · 限制 III/86 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Farnesol | DEODORANT, PERFUMING · 限制 III/82 | 0 · – | Yellow |
| Geraniol | TONIC, PERFUMING · 限制 III/78 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
Ingredients explained
- Water
- Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth
- Glycerin
- Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
- Vitamin C derivative antioxidant at 0.5–2%; light-sensitive, requires opaque packaging
- Niacinamide
- Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity
- Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
- Solubilizer and emulsifier for oil-soluble ingredients; high concentrations may cause contact dermatitis in sensitive skin.
- Phenoxyethanol
- Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin
- Citric Acid
- Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH
- Xanthan Gum
- Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration
- Sodium Gluconate
- Mild chelator, aids skin conditioning; typically used at low levels as auxiliary
- Sodium Dehydroacetate
- Sodium dehydroacetate, preservative <0.5%; restricted for eye, children, and lip use.
- Bisabolol
- Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.
- Polysorbate 20
- Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.
- Boswellia Carterii Oil
- Frankincense essential oil; penetrant; high-concentration allergen risk.
- Fusanus Spicatus Wood Oil
- Sandalwood oil used as fragrance base; essential oil category, potential allergen, strict labeling compliance required.
- Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
- Rose essential oil with strong scent; contains allergens, requires IFRA compliance.
- Biosaccharide Gum-1
- Biosaccharide Gum-1, fermented colloid for hydration and soothing, low comedogenic.
- Sodium Carrageenan
- Seaweed-derived thickener and stabilizer, 0.5-1.5% adjusts viscosity; sensitive to ions, test compatibility with cationic surfactants.
- Glyceryl Caprylate
- Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.
- Sodium Anisate
- Benzoate-based preservative component; used in combinations for antimicrobial effect, slight fragrance, control concentration.
- Sodium Levulinate
- Sodium levulinate, natural-derived humectant; generally mild, often used in blends.
- Sea Salt
- Sea salt for exfoliation/minerals; particle size matters, high ionic strength when dissolved, check compatibility.
- D-Limonene
- Citrus terpene used as fragrance and skin conditioner; EU allergen, may cause sensitization at high levels, must be labeled.
- Citronellol
- Citronellol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.
- Farnesol
- Farnesol, a fixative and deodorant; listed as a EU 26 allergen, requires labeling, potential sensitizer.
- Geraniol
- Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.
Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-18. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page
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