neogenesis Barrier Renewal Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes
3. Urea
4. Squalane
5. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
6. Glycerin
7. Sodium PCA
8. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
9. Lecithin
10. Ceramide NP
11. Ceramide AP
12. Ceramide EOP
13. Phytosphingosine
14. Cholesterol
15. Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
16. Carbomer
17. Xanthan Gum
18. Sodium Hyaluronate Butyrate
19. Panthenol
20. Sodium Hyaluronate
21. Chondrus Crispus Extract
22. Propanediol
23. Dehydroacetic Acid
24. Benzyl Alcohol
25. Gluconolactone
26. Benzoic Acid
27. Disodium EDTA
28. Phenoxyethanol
29. Ethylhexylglycerin

Highlights

Free of fragranceFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Carthamus Tinctorius OleosomesSqualane

ANTISTATIC

UreaSodium PCA

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

DENATURANT

Glycerin

BINDING

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Other ingredients

LecithinCeramide NPCeramide APCeramide EOPPhytosphingosineCholesterolSodium Lauroyl LactylateCarbomerXanthan GumSodium Hyaluronate ButyratePanthenolSodium HyaluronateChondrus Crispus ExtractPropanediolDehydroacetic AcidBenzyl AlcoholGluconolactoneBenzoic AcidDisodium EDTAPhenoxyethanolEthylhexylglycerin

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes

Safflower oleosomes; plant-based emollient and stabilizer with fine particle size.

Urea

Potent humectant and keratolytic, >10% has exfoliating effect; stinging sensation at high levels, sensitive skin caution

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA, NMF component, 1-10% humectant; salty/tacky at high levels.

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Water-soluble film former for styling and thickening; check residual acryloyl chloride for sensitive skin.

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Ceramide AP

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine barrier repair ingredient, 0.1–1%; water-soluble, good for dry skin.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Mild emulsifier at 1–5%; suitable for sensitive skin, mind cationic surfactant compatibility

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Sodium Hyaluronate Butyrate

Not decoded yet

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Carrageenan for thickening and moisturizing; seaweed-based, pH-sensitive

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Dehydroacetic Acid

Broad-spectrum preservative for acidic and oil-based systems; has concentration limits, requires challenge testing.

Benzyl Alcohol

Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.

Gluconolactone

Multifunctional agent for chelation and permeation; acidic, may irritate at high levels, buffer recommended.

Benzoic Acid

Preservative and pH adjuster at 0.1–0.5%; low water solubility, best in acidic media, irritant at high levels.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

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