hourglass No. 28 Primer Serum
hourglass Hourglass No. 28 Primer Serum lists 47 ingredients on its label, 32 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.
Ingredients overview
Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.
Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.
- Cyclopentasiloxane
- Dimethicone
- Ethylhexyl Cocoate
- Dimethiconol
- Phenyl Trimethicone
- Ceramide 3
- Sphingolipids
- Jojoba Oil
- Rosehip Seed Oil
- Evening Primrose Oil
- Sweet Almond Oil
- Camellia Sinensis Leaf Oil
- Olive Oil
- Hazelnut Oil
- Borage Seed Oil
- Kukui Nut Oil
- Cherry Pit Oil
- Tocopherol
- Retinyl Palmitate
- Tocopheryl Linoleate
- Panthenyl Triacetate
- Ascorbyl Palmitate
- Ascorbic Acid
- Octyldodecanol
- Dioctyl Succinate
- PEG-8
- Tridecyl Stearate
- Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
- Tridecyl Trimellitate
- Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract
- Octyldodecyl Myristate
- Citric Acid
- Lavender Oil
- Geranium Oil
- Rose Geranium Oil
- Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil
- Clove Oil
- Orange Peel Oil
- Petitgrain Oil
- Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil
- Benzoin Siam Absolute
- Lemon Peel Oil
- Eucalyptus Globulus Oil
- Rosemary Leaf Oil
- Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
- Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil
- Ylang Ylang Oil
Highlights
Contains siliconesContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergens
Key ingredients
- SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
- CyclopentasiloxaneEthylhexyl CocoateSphingolipids
- ANTIFOAMING
- DimethiconeDimethiconolPhenyl Trimethicone
- HAIR CONDITIONING
- Ceramide 3
- 润肤剂
- Jojoba Oil
Other ingredients
Rosehip Seed OilEvening Primrose OilSweet Almond OilCamellia Sinensis Leaf OilOlive OilHazelnut OilBorage Seed OilKukui Nut OilCherry Pit OilTocopherolRetinyl PalmitateTocopheryl LinoleatePanthenyl TriacetateAscorbyl PalmitateAscorbic AcidOctyldodecanolDioctyl SuccinatePEG-8Tridecyl StearateNeopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/DicaprateTridecyl TrimellitateLithospermum Officinale Root ExtractOctyldodecyl MyristateCitric AcidLavender OilGeranium OilRose Geranium OilVanilla Planifolia Fruit OilClove OilOrange Peel OilPetitgrain OilAmyris Balsamifera Bark OilBenzoin Siam AbsoluteLemon Peel OilEucalyptus Globulus OilRosemary Leaf OilAniba Rosaeodora Wood OilThuja Occidentalis Leaf OilYlang Ylang Oil
Skim through
| Ingredient | What it does | Irr. · Com. | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cyclopentasiloxane | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Dimethicone | ANTIFOAMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Ethylhexyl Cocoate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Dimethiconol | ANTIFOAMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, MOISTURISING | 0 · 3 | Green |
| Phenyl Trimethicone | ANTIFOAMING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · – | Green |
| Ceramide 3 | HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sphingolipids | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING | 0 · 1 | Green |
| Jojoba Oil | 润肤剂, 皮肤调理剂 | 0 · 2 | Green |
| Rosehip Seed Oil | 皮肤调理剂，保湿剂 | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Evening Primrose Oil | 皮肤调理剂 | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Sweet Almond Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Camellia Sinensis Leaf Oil | ANTIOXIDANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · – | Green |
| Olive Oil | 润肤剂, 皮肤调理剂 | 1 · 3 | Green |
| Hazelnut Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Borage Seed Oil | 皮肤调理剂 | 0 · 2 | Green |
| Kukui Nut Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Cherry Pit Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Tocopherol | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Retinyl Palmitate | SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS · 限制 III/376 | 1 · 2 | Green |
| Tocopheryl Linoleate | ANTIOXIDANT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING | — | Green |
| Panthenyl Triacetate | ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Ascorbyl Palmitate | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE | — | Green |
| Ascorbic Acid | ANTIOXIDANT, BUFFERING, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING | 2 · 0 | Green |
| Octyldodecanol | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, FRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, PERFUMING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Dioctyl Succinate | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| PEG-8 | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Tridecyl Stearate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 3 | Green |
| Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Tridecyl Trimellitate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 5 | Green |
| Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Octyldodecyl Myristate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT | 0 · 1 | Green |
| Citric Acid | BUFFERING, CHELATING, FRAGRANCE | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Lavender Oil | 香料,皮肤调理剂 | 2 · – | Green |
| Geranium Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Rose Geranium Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Clove Oil | 精油,抗菌剂 | 2 · 0 | Green |
| Orange Peel Oil | 香精 | 2 · – | Green |
| Petitgrain Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil | FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING | 1 · – | Green |
| Benzoin Siam Absolute | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Lemon Peel Oil | 香料, 皮肤调理剂 | 3 · 1 | Green |
| Eucalyptus Globulus Oil | FRAGRANCE | 2 · 0 | Green |
| Rosemary Leaf Oil | 抗氧化剂,香料 | — | Green |
| Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Ylang Ylang Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
Ingredients explained
- Cyclopentasiloxane
- Cyclopentasiloxane for emollient/solvent; volatile silicone, smooth feel, check VOC regulations.
- Dimethicone
- Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin
- Ethylhexyl Cocoate
- Coconut-derived ester, light emollient, low viscosity; mild, low comedogenic, oil-friendly
- Dimethiconol
- Dimethiconol; silicone emollient providing silky feel and reducing friction; moderate comedogenicity, avoid excess.
- Phenyl Trimethicone
- Aromatic modified silicone for high gloss and occlusion; inert, non-volatile, may leave surface residue
- Ceramide 3
- Ceramide 3 to restore skin barrier and moisturize; used at 0.01–1%, often blended
- Sphingolipids
- Biomimetic membrane lipids for repairing skin barrier and stratum corneum; highly effective for barrier impairment
- Jojoba Oil
- Liquid wax ester similar to sebum; good penetration as a base oil
- Rosehip Seed Oil
- Rosehip seed oil rich in fatty acids for moisturizing and anti-aging; monitor oxidation stability.
- Evening Primrose Oil
- Evening Primrose Oil, rich in GLA, skin barrier repair; low irritation, screen for allergens
- Sweet Almond Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Camellia Sinensis Leaf Oil
- Antioxidant tea extract; verify if essential oil body is present, potential allergen risk.
- Olive Oil
- Plant oil base providing emolliency and occlusion; high PUFA content requires antioxidants to prevent oxidation.
- Hazelnut Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Borage Seed Oil
- Borage Seed Oil; rich in GLA for barrier support and sebum regulation, highly refined grades preferred.
- Kukui Nut Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Cherry Pit Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Tocopherol
- Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light
- Retinyl Palmitate
- Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.
- Tocopheryl Linoleate
- Vitamin E linoleate antioxidant and humectant; oil-soluble, oxidizes easily; use chelators and protect from light
- Panthenyl Triacetate
- Panthenyl triacetate, antistatic and hair conditioning; hydrolyzes to panthenol
- Ascorbyl Palmitate
- Ascorbyl palmitate, lipophilic Vit C ester, antioxidant; oxidizes, needs light/air protection.
- Ascorbic Acid
- Vitamin C, potent antioxidant requiring acidic environment for stability; oxidizes and discolors easily, needs light and air protection, concentration 1-10%, pure L-ascorbic acid is more irritating.
- Octyldodecanol
- Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.
- Dioctyl Succinate
- Not decoded yet
- PEG-8
- Not decoded yet
- Tridecyl Stearate
- Tridecyl stearate emollient; lightweight, moderate comedogenic
- Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
- Light emollient ester for fast spreadability and a light feel.
- Tridecyl Trimellitate
- Ester emollient for skin conditioning; lipophilic nature may increase comedogenicity for acne-prone skin.
- Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract
- Not decoded yet
- Octyldodecyl Myristate
- Lightweight ester for smooth, non-greasy feel; acts as an emollient.
- Citric Acid
- Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH
- Lavender Oil
- Lavender essential oil for fragrance; high allergen rate, concentration control needed.
- Geranium Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Rose Geranium Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Clove Oil
- Clove essential oil with strong antibacterial and soothing effects; potential irritant at high concentrations.
- Orange Peel Oil
- Essential oil, fresh scent, 0.1-1%; high photosensitivity, boost SPF during day, caution for sensitive skin.
- Petitgrain Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil
- Amyris bark oil containing terpenes; used as fragrance and perfuming agent, contains EU-labeled fragrance allergens.
- Benzoin Siam Absolute
- Not decoded yet
- Lemon Peel Oil
- Citrus essential oil with furocoumarins; photosensitizing, limit in daytime formulas, <0.5% typical, stinging on sensitive skin
- Eucalyptus Globulus Oil
- Eucalyptus oil for cooling sensation and fragrance; use low concentration for sensitive skin to avoid irritation
- Rosemary Leaf Oil
- Antioxidant and scent maskant; allergen risk higher than single oils, evaluate.
- Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Ylang Ylang Oil
- Not decoded yet
Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-19. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page
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