chemist-confessions Chemist Confessions Double Play Face & Eye Treatment Retinol + Peptides

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Ethyl Macadamiate
3. Glycerin
4. Cetearyl Olivate
5. Niacinamide
6. Sorbitan Olivate
7. Glyceryl Stearate
8. Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
9. Dimethicone
10. Dimethiconol
11. Hydrogenated Olive Oil
12. Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
13. Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
14. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
15. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
16. Sodium Hyaluronate
17. Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
18. Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
19. Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
20. Bisabolol
21. Madecassoside
22. Asiaticoside
23. Retinol
24. Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
25. Asparagopsis Armata Extract
26. Steareth-20
27. N-Hydroxysuccinimide
28. Chrysin
29. Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
30. Copernicia Cerifera Cera
31. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
32. Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
33. Polysorbate 20
34. Ethyl Ferulate
35. Tocopherol
36. Humulus Lupulus Extract
37. Xanthan Gum
38. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
39. Ethylhexylglycerin
40. Pentylene Glycol
41. 1,2-Hexanediol
42. Caprylyl Glycol
43. Propanediol
44. Phenoxyethanol
45. Chlorphenesin
46. Disodium EDTA

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains siliconesContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains PEG

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SKIN CONDITIONING

Ethyl Macadamiate

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Cetearyl OlivateGlyceryl Stearate

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Sorbitan Olivate

VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Other ingredients

DimethiconeDimethiconolHydrogenated Olive OilOlea Europaea Fruit OilOlea Europaea Oil UnsaponifiablesPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerSodium Acetylated HyaluronateHydrolyzed Sodium HyaluronateBisabololMadecassosideAsiaticosideRetinolAscophyllum Nodosum ExtractAsparagopsis Armata ExtractSteareth-20N-HydroxysuccinimideChrysinHydrogenated Starch HydrolysateCopernicia Cerifera CeraHelianthus Annuus Seed OilDisodium CocoamphodiacetatePolysorbate 20Ethyl FerulateTocopherolHumulus Lupulus ExtractXanthan GumAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerEthylhexylglycerinPentylene Glycol1,2-HexanediolCaprylyl GlycolPropanediolPhenoxyethanolChlorphenesinDisodium EDTA

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Ethyl Macadamiate

Ethyl ester of macadamia oleic acid; lightweight skin conditioning; low comedogenicity

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Cetearyl Olivate

Natural emulsifier pairing with glucosides; skin-like feel, biodegradable, prone to oxidation requiring light protection

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Sorbitan Olivate

O/W emulsifier, HLB ~15, requires ionic co-surfactant, potential sensitizer.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Rheology-modifying silicone polymer for suspension and feel; requires silicone-compatible system

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Dimethiconol

Dimethiconol; silicone emollient providing silky feel and reducing friction; moderate comedogenicity, avoid excess.

Hydrogenated Olive Oil

Hydrogenated olive oil for emollience and viscosity; potential comedogenic, caution for oily skin

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Olive oil, rich in squalene and oleic acid; moderate comedogenicity, caution for oily skin.

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Olive oil unsaponifiables; rich in squalene and vitamin E. Use at 1-2% for repair; stable.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 for repair; requires lipid carrier, unstable in aqueous phase

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 boosts collagen; use 0.1–1%, formulate with lipid carriers

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Crosslinked high-MW HA; forms surface hydrogel for long-lasting hydration, minimal penetration, physical film-forming.

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Acetylated HA; modified for hydrophobicity, improved penetration and non-tacky feel compared to standard HA.

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid derivative with better penetration and strong hydration; different molecular weights provide hydration at various depths, typical concentration 0.1-1%.

Bisabolol

Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.

Madecassoside

Triterpenoid glycoside with soothing, repairing, and antioxidant effects; typical concentration 0.1-1%, suitable for sensitive or compromised skin, good stability.

Asiaticoside

Plant glycoside, healing and antioxidant; poor solubility, use low levels with solubilizers.

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Ascophyllum nodosum extract, provides hydration and antioxidant protection; usually low concentration as natural functional additive.

Asparagopsis Armata Extract

Not decoded yet

Steareth-20

Not decoded yet

N-Hydroxysuccinimide

Chemical auxiliary for forming acyl ester bonds; usually not retained in final product, control residual levels during synthesis.

Chrysin

Flavonoid for skin conditioning; low solubility, use carriers or micronization.

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Humectant for hydration and film formation; 1-5%, monitor microbial contamination

Copernicia Cerifera Cera

Carnauba wax, viscosity and film; high melt point, heat-stable, for creams.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate

Amphoteric surfactant for cleansing and foam boosting; milder than sulfates, low comedogenic risk.

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Ethyl Ferulate

Antioxidant that slows lipid oxidation; usable in both aqueous and oil phases.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Humulus Lupulus Extract

Hops extract: antimicrobial/antiperspirant/conditioner/fragrance; test on sensitive skin.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Cationic polymer providing suspension, thickening, and conditioning; often paired with anionic thickening systems, low usage, imparts slip.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Chlorphenesin

Phenolic antimicrobial; strict EU limits apply, potential allergen, careful dosing required for leave-on products.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

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