elemis Ultra Smart Pro-Collagen Complex 12 Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua/Water/Eau
2. Coco-Caprylate
3. Glycerin
4. Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer
5. Bulbine Frutescens Leaf Juice
6. Carbomer
7. Phenoxyethanol
8. Hydroxyacetophenone
9. Panthenol
10. Sodium Polyacrylate
11. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
12. Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Sebacate
13. Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate
14. Sodium Hydroxide
15. Fragrance
16. Disodium EDTA
17. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
18. Dunaliella Salina Extract*
19. Lithothamnion Calcareum Powder*
20. Chlorella Vulgaris Extract*
21. Chondrus Crispus Extract*
22. Mannitol
23. Rhizobian Gum
24. Sodium Hyaluronate
25. Sodium Benzoate
26. Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract*
27. Potassium Sorbate
28. Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
29. Chlorphenesin
30. Diatomaceous Earth
31. Benzyl Salicylate
32. Limonene
33. Citric Acid
34. Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
35. Alaria Esculenta Extract*
36. Laminaria Digitata Extract*
37. Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract*
38. Xanthan Gum
39. Linalool
40. Caprylyl Glycol
41. Tocopherol
42. Plankton Extract*
43. Porphyridium Cruentum Extract*
44. Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
45. Phytosterols
46. Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract*
47. Zinc Sulfate
48. Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract
49. Commiphora Myrrha Oil
50. Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
51. Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract
52. Punica Granatum Seed Oil
53. Rosa Damascena Flower Extract
54. Glyceryl Caprylate
55. Sorbic Acid
56. Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
57. Phenylpropanol
58. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50
59. Polyvinyl Alcohol
60. Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
61. Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil
62. Iris Pallida Root Extract

Highlights

Contains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains essential oils

Key ingredients

溶剂

Aqua/Water/Eau

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Coco-Caprylate

DENATURANT

Glycerin

ANTICAKING

Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer

SKIN CONDITIONING

Bulbine Frutescens Leaf Juice

EMULSION STABILISING

Carbomer

ANTIMICROBIAL

Phenoxyethanol

ANTIOXIDANT

Hydroxyacetophenone

Other ingredients

PanthenolSodium PolyacrylateCaprylic/Capric TriglyceridePolyglyceryl-4 Laurate/SebacatePolyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/CaprateSodium HydroxideFragranceDisodium EDTAHelianthus Annuus Seed OilDunaliella Salina Extract*Lithothamnion Calcareum Powder*Chlorella Vulgaris Extract*Chondrus Crispus Extract*MannitolRhizobian GumSodium HyaluronateSodium BenzoatePadina Pavonica Thallus Extract*Potassium SorbateLavandula Angustifolia OilChlorphenesinDiatomaceous EarthBenzyl SalicylateLimoneneCitric AcidPelargonium Graveolens OilAlaria Esculenta Extract*Laminaria Digitata Extract*Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract*Xanthan GumLinaloolCaprylyl GlycolTocopherolPlankton Extract*Porphyridium Cruentum Extract*Alpha-Isomethyl IononePhytosterolsGelidium Cartilagineum Extract*Zinc SulfateAcacia Decurrens Flower ExtractCommiphora Myrrha OilDaucus Carota Sativa Seed OilJasminum Officinale Flower ExtractPunica Granatum Seed OilRosa Damascena Flower ExtractGlyceryl CaprylateSorbic AcidLactic Acid/Glycolic Acid CopolymerPhenylpropanolPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50Polyvinyl AlcoholHeptapeptide-15 PalmitateCitrus Aurantium Amara Flower OilIris Pallida Root Extract

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua/Water/Eau

Water as solvent/base; main ingredient, microbial control needed, paired with preservatives.

Coco-Caprylate

Coconut/caprylate ester for light emollient finish; balance with humectants.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer

Water-soluble powder; anti-caking for antiperspirants/sunscreen, highly hygroscopic

Bulbine Frutescens Leaf Juice

Bulbine leaf juice; soothing/humectant, high spoilage risk, higher allergenicity than pure aloe

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyacetophenone as antioxidant; often boosts Vitamin C, works in acidic pH.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Sodium Polyacrylate

Superabsorbent resin, <1%; gels with electrolytes, ionic strength control required.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Sebacate

Not decoded yet

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate

Not decoded yet

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Fragrance

Fragrance; concentration must control allergen risk, label specific components

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Dunaliella Salina Extract*

Not decoded yet

Lithothamnion Calcareum Powder*

Not decoded yet

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract*

Not decoded yet

Chondrus Crispus Extract*

Not decoded yet

Mannitol

Polyol humectant with binding/skin conditioning properties; high levels may cause osmotic irritation

Rhizobian Gum

Biofilm former and viscosity agent for hair; biocompatible and mild

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract*

Not decoded yet

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Fragrance essential oil, 0.1–1%; contains allergens, patch test required.

Chlorphenesin

Phenolic antimicrobial; strict EU limits apply, potential allergen, careful dosing required for leave-on products.

Diatomaceous Earth

Diatomaceous earth for oil absorption/opacification at 1–5%; high surface area, handle dust carefully.

Benzyl Salicylate

UV absorber/light stabilizer, restricted in EU; potential sensitizer, risk assessment needed.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Pelargonium graveolens oil containing citronellol and geraniol; used as perfuming agent, contains labeled allergens requiring compliance checks.

Alaria Esculenta Extract*

Not decoded yet

Laminaria Digitata Extract*

Not decoded yet

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract*

Not decoded yet

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Plankton Extract*

Not decoded yet

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract*

Not decoded yet

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Vanilla-like fragrance ingredient; one of EU 26 allergens, caution advised for sensitive skin.

Phytosterols

Plant sterol mix for skin barrier repair and soothing; plant-derived, no reported sensitization.

Gelidium Cartilagineum Extract*

Not decoded yet

Zinc Sulfate

Antimicrobial and astringent, restricted in oral care; <1% topical, metallic taste, avoid mixing with amino acids

Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract

Golden Wattle flower extract; natural scent & conditioner, low sensitization risk.

Commiphora Myrrha Oil

Not decoded yet

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil

Plant seed oil with antioxidants; may have natural fragrance, low photosensitizing potential

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Jasmine flower extract for fragrance and conditioning; contains allergens, restricted in leave-on products under EU regulations, label required.

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

Vegetable oil rich in unsaturated fatty acids; emollient with light feel, prone to oxidation, add antioxidants and store protected.

Rosa Damascena Flower Extract

Rose damascena extract, fragrance/tonic; contains allergens (linalool, geraniol, etc.), labeling required in EU.

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.

Sorbic Acid

Preservative effective at low pH, often combined with sorbate salts; check regulatory limits

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

AHA copolymer; exfoliating, requires buffering agents.

Phenylpropanol

Phenylpropanol for fragrance and solvent; allergen risk, requires assessment

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50

Not decoded yet

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Film/viscosity agent for masks/cleansers; water-soluble, forms flexible film

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Not decoded yet

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil

Bitter orange flower oil, an essential oil used for fragrance and skin conditioning; contains labeled allergen compounds, caution for sensitive skin.

Iris Pallida Root Extract

Iris pallida root extract for fragrance/toning; low conc. (<1%); watch allergen/photosensitizer potential.

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