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The Inkey List advanced retinal serum

The Inkey List the inkey list advanced retinal serum lists 28 ingredients on its label, 28 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

  1. Aqua
  2. Glycerin
  3. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  4. Dicaprylyl Carbonate
  5. Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
  6. Isohexadecane
  7. Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
  8. Cetearyl Alcohol
  9. Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
  10. Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
  11. Phenoxyethanol
  12. Dipropylene Glycol
  13. Pentylene Glycol
  14. Glyceryl Caprylate
  15. Diisopropyl Sebacate
  16. Glyceryl Stearate
  17. 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
  18. Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
  19. Retinal
  20. Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
  21. Tocophersolan
  22. Tocopheryl Acetate
  23. Caprylhydroxamic Acid
  24. Ethylhexylglycerin
  25. Bacillus Ferment
  26. Lactic Acid
  27. Sodium Benzoate
  28. Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains mineral oilContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains PEG

Formulation view Aqueous base with light ester solvents; core active is retinal. Enriched with mango butter, cucumber extract, and hyaluronic acids. Preserved by phenoxyethanol. Factory view: potent serum; retinal stability is temperature-sensitive; requires light protection packaging.

Key ingredients

SOLVENT
Aqua
DENATURANT
Glycerin
FRAGRANCE
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
Dicaprylyl CarbonatePolyglyceryl-6 StearateIsohexadecaneCetearyl Alcohol
EMULSION STABILISING
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Other ingredients

Mangifera Indica Seed ButterCucumis Sativus Fruit ExtractPhenoxyethanolDipropylene GlycolPentylene GlycolGlyceryl CaprylateDiisopropyl SebacateGlyceryl Stearate4-T-ButylcyclohexanolPolyglyceryl-6 BehenateRetinalSorbeth-30 TetraoleateTocophersolanTocopheryl AcetateCaprylhydroxamic AcidEthylhexylglycerinBacillus FermentLactic AcidSodium BenzoateDimethylmethoxy Chromanol

Skim through

IngredientWhat it doesIrr. · Com.Rating
AquaSOLVENT0 · 0Green
GlycerinDENATURANT, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, ORAL CARE, SKIN PROTECTING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT0 · 0Green
Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideFRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, PERFUMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE0 · 0Green
Dicaprylyl CarbonateSKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING0 · 0Green
Polyglyceryl-6 StearateSKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT0 · 0Green
IsohexadecaneSKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SOLVENT0 · 0Green
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl TaurateEMULSION STABILISING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING0 · 0Green
Cetearyl AlcoholSKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, EMULSION STABILISING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, OPACIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING0 · 0Green
Mangifera Indica Seed ButterSKIN CONDITIONING0 · 1Green
Cucumis Sativus Fruit ExtractSKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING0 · 0Green
PhenoxyethanolANTIMICROBIAL, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/291 · 0Yellow
Dipropylene GlycolFRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING0 · 0Green
Pentylene GlycolSKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT0 · 0Green
Glyceryl CaprylateDEODORANT, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING0 · 0Green
Diisopropyl SebacateSKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, PLASTICISER, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT0 · 0Green
Glyceryl StearateSKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING0 · 0Green
4-T-ButylcyclohexanolFRAGRANCE, PERFUMING0 · –Green
Polyglyceryl-6 BehenateEMULSION STABILISING0 · 1Green
RetinalSKIN CONDITIONING2 · 0Green
Sorbeth-30 TetraoleateSURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING0 · 0Green
TocophersolanANTIOXIDANT—Green
Tocopheryl AcetateANTIOXIDANT, SKIN CONDITIONING0 · 0Green
Caprylhydroxamic AcidCHELATING0 · –Green
EthylhexylglycerinDEODORANT, SKIN CONDITIONING0 · 0Green
Bacillus FermentSKIN CONDITIONING—Green
Lactic AcidBUFFERING, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING1 · 0Green
Sodium BenzoateANTICORROSIVE, FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/10 · –Yellow
Dimethylmethoxy ChromanolANTIOXIDANT0 · 0Green

Ingredients explained

Aqua
Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical
Glycerin
Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Light emollient solvent at 5–15%; mineral oil-free, refreshing feel, low sensitization.
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
Gentle emulsifier suitable for sensitive skin; oil-soluble, often paired with others; non-comedogenic
Isohexadecane
Lightweight mineral-oil-derived emollient and solvent; low viscosity, non-comedogenic, improves texture
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate for emulsion stabilization and thickening; ionic polymer, check ion compatibility.
Cetearyl Alcohol
Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Plant butter rich in fatty acids; provides lipid occlusion and emollience. Use with emulsifiers.
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Botanical extract for conditioning; note extraction impact on active retention
Phenoxyethanol
Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
Solvent for essential oils; better humectancy than PEG
Pentylene Glycol
Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin
Glyceryl Caprylate
Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.
Diisopropyl Sebacate
Low-viscosity, high-flash-point ester; excellent spreadability, non-greasy feel
Glyceryl Stearate
Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification
4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
Fixative and scent masker; not a primary skin conditioning agent.
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
Non-ionic emulsifier for stabilizing O/W systems; gentle.
Retinal
Potent vitamin A aldehyde for cell turnover; low effective range 0.01-0.05%, unstable, avoid for pregnant users.
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
Non-ionic polyol ester emulsifier; gentle, used in O/W systems to improve emulsion stability of oils
Tocophersolan
ANTIOXIDANT
Tocopheryl Acetate
Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Chelating agent to stabilize metal ions; often paired with antioxidants for system stability, used at low levels
Ethylhexylglycerin
Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel
Bacillus Ferment
Bacillus ferment extract; skin conditioner with peptides; verify sterile specs and endotoxin levels
Lactic Acid
AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.
Sodium Benzoate
Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
Ergothioneine analog antioxidant; stabilizes formula, protect from light.

Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-17. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page

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