Hydrating · Soothing · Barrier repair
Betula Alba Juice
Betula Alba Juice
白桦树汁
- INCI
- Betula Alba Juice
- Family
- 植物提取物
- Typical use level
- 以替代部分水相计,常见 5–50%;工艺可控起步区间建议 30–50%,更高比例须先跑通防腐挑战与稳定性再谈(公开配方学常见区间,非法规限值)
- pH window
- 4.5–6.5
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1) 自带钾钙镁等电解质,会压缩卡波姆等阴离子增稠体系的黏度——高比例直接替代水,凝胶往往起不来或明显变稀,这是最常见的第一次翻车。2) 二价阳离子与酸性多糖(如卡拉胶、部分果胶)或皂化体系同用,可能生成不溶物或絮状。3) 与高浓度醇同用可能析出沉淀。4) 糖分与胺类在高温下褐变并产生焦甜气味。5) 高含糖背景与低强度防腐体系不相容。6) 与铁离子接触后颜色加深。
Stability
这是一条营养液,不是水:水活度高、含糖含氮,微生物挑战难度显著上升,未经处理的原液在常温下数小时就可能起菌变味。冻存或浓缩规格解冻后常见沉淀与颜色变化,需要重新过滤或均质。高温灭菌会引发褐变与气味改变,破坏「清透」的产品定位。常见防护:来料必须已做除菌处理(除菌过滤或巴氏)并自带防腐;进厂后冷链或低温存放,规定开桶后使用期限;成品防腐体系按最高风险设计并实测挑战;灌装环境与暴露时间纳入控制。
Processing notes
这是典型的营销与工艺冲突案例:客户开口就是「90% 桦树汁替代水」,工厂要先把三个问题摆到桌面上——① 来料是否已除菌、自带什么防腐、开桶后能放几天;② 替代后增稠体系要重做,阴离子增稠剂多半得换成非离子型或耐电解质型,或改用胶体复配,肤感会跟着变,需要重新打样确认;③ 防腐挑战必须整套重做,不能沿用同款配方的历史数据。生产上:优先冷配,或在降温段加入并缩短滞留时间,不要与料体一起长时间高温保温;加热上限 50℃,能不加热就不加热。设备与管路按含糖料体加强清洗与消毒,残留极易成为下批染菌源。放大生产的坑:大批量时从开桶到灌装完成的总暴露时间远长于小样,微生物风险不是线性放大而是跳跃式上升,首批必须做在线取样验证。给客户的务实建议是先做 30–50% 替代跑通防腐挑战和稳定性,再谈更高比例——把这个台阶讲在报价前面,比事后返工划算。
What it addresses
是早春从桦树采集的树液,天然含糖类(以木糖、葡萄糖、果糖为主)、有机酸、氨基酸与钾钙镁等矿物质,固含量低。配方中常被用作「以树汁替代部分水」的概念性基质,用于清爽保湿方向。它在技术上不是一个活性物问题,而是一个基质工程问题:换掉的是配方里占比最大的那一相。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 常规使用方向的植物汁液原料,需确认原料在国内已使用化妆品原料目录内并具备原料安全信息码,高比例使用时微生物指标需重点关注;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 按常规植物汁液使用,安全评估需覆盖来料微生物控制、防腐有效性与重金属项;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 一般作为化妆品成分常规使用,高水活度产品的微生物控制需有完整记录;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 韩国等市场使用成熟且概念认知度高,按目标市场规则复核原料申报与微生物要求;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 01135
- Standard Chinese name
- 白桦(BETULA ALBA)树汁
- Max historical use, rinse-off
- 89.373%
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 0.41624%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (01135)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (54753) · 功能 ASTRINGENT, TONIC
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 桦树汁,白桦汁,桦树液,Betula alba,Birch sap,Birch juice
- CAS
- 无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)
- Suits formats
- Toner · Essence · Lotion · Sheet mask · Gel · Serum
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商就防腐与加工助剂出具证明。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 中
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingScutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingSalvia Miltiorrhiza Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingAngelica Sinensis Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPaeonia Lactiflora Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPanax Ginseng Root ExtractAnti-ageing
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.