sesderma Retises 0.25

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
3. Pentylene Glycol
4. Cetyl Alcohol
5. Glyceryl Stearate
6. PEG-100 Stearate
7. Propylene Glycol
8. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
9. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
10. Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
11. Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
12. Cyclopentasiloxane
13. Dimethicone
14. * Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer *
15. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
16. Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
17. Ascorbyl Glucoside
18. Ascorbyl Palmitate
19. Benzyl Cinnamate
20. Benzyl Salicylate
21. BHA
22. BHT
23. Boswellia Serrata Gum
24. Butylphenyl Methylpropional
25. C13-14 Isoparaffin
26. Citric Acid
27. Coumarin
28. Cyclohexasiloxane
29. Dipropylene Glycol
30. Disodium EDTA
31. Ethylparaben
32. Glyceryl Behenate
33. Glyceryl Oleate
34. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
35. Laureth-7
36. Lecithin
37. Linalool
38. Methylparaben
39. O-Cymen-5-Ol
40. Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
41. Parfum
42. PEG-8
43. Phenoxyethanol
44. Polysorbate 20
45. Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
46. Retinol
47. Retinyl Propionate
48. Salicylic Acid
49. Sodium Hydroxide
50. Tocopherol
51. Tocopheryl Acetate
52. Xanthan Gum

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains siliconesContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains mineral oilContains parabensContains essential oils

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

LIGHT STABILIZER

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

SKIN CONDITIONING

Pentylene Glycol

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Cetyl AlcoholGlyceryl Stearate

SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

PEG-100 Stearate

HUMECTANT

Propylene Glycol

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Other ingredients

C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneGlyceryl PolymethacrylateCyclopentasiloxaneDimethicone* Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer *Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerAlpha-Isomethyl IononeAscorbyl GlucosideAscorbyl PalmitateBenzyl CinnamateBenzyl SalicylateBHABHTBoswellia Serrata GumButylphenyl MethylpropionalC13-14 IsoparaffinCitric AcidCoumarinCyclohexasiloxaneDipropylene GlycolDisodium EDTAEthylparabenGlyceryl BehenateGlyceryl OleateHelianthus Annuus Seed OilLaureth-7LecithinLinaloolMethylparabenO-Cymen-5-OlPalmitoyl OligopeptideParfumPEG-8PhenoxyethanolPolysorbate 20Pseudoalteromonas Ferment ExtractRetinolRetinyl PropionateSalicylic AcidSodium HydroxideTocopherolTocopheryl AcetateXanthan Gum

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

UVA absorber used with other filters; poor water stability and photolability, requires light stabilizers, max concentration typically 10%.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

C12-15 alkyl benzoate; emollient, emulsifier, and antistatic; aids stability and smoothness, moderate low comedogenicity.

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

High-potency UVA filter (Parsol MXX); requires stabilizers and UVB blockers.

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Acrylate polymer for high viscosity, film formation, and conditioning feel. Synthetic polymer, low irritancy.

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclopentasiloxane for emollient/solvent; volatile silicone, smooth feel, check VOC regulations.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

* Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer *

Not decoded yet

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Cationic polymer providing suspension, thickening, and conditioning; often paired with anionic thickening systems, low usage, imparts slip.

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Vanilla-like fragrance ingredient; one of EU 26 allergens, caution advised for sensitive skin.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Stable Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant; more stable than pure ascorbic acid, releases activity slowly in neutral/basic conditions.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl palmitate, lipophilic Vit C ester, antioxidant; oxidizes, needs light/air protection.

Benzyl Cinnamate

Fragrance ingredient; EU listed allergen, must be declared if above threshold

Benzyl Salicylate

UV absorber/light stabilizer, restricted in EU; potential sensitizer, risk assessment needed.

BHA

Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA); oil-phase antioxidant. Use <0.05%. Controversial at high levels.

BHT

Lipophilic antioxidant at 0.01-0.05%; ineffective with acidic systems, label-sensitive, check regulatory limits as preservative alternative.

Boswellia Serrata Gum

Not decoded yet

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Synthetic fragrance with floral notes; EU regulations limit usage, strict monitoring required.

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Light hydrocarbon solvent providing emolliency and solubility; non-allergenic, note occlusive nature

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Coumarin

Classic fragrance and photosensitizer, EU restriction III/77; high allergen risk, limit in facial products

Cyclohexasiloxane

Volatile cyclic silicone evaporating without residue; ensure compliance with EU limits on cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, use octamer

Dipropylene Glycol

Solvent for essential oils; better humectancy than PEG

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Ethylparaben

Paraben preservative; EU restricted, watch total load and sensitive skin reactions

Glyceryl Behenate

Emulsifier and thickener with emollient properties; high melting point, low comedogenicity.

Glyceryl Oleate

Glyceride-based emulsifier and emolient with mild perfuming properties.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Laureth-7

Mild non-ionic surfactant for emulsification and solubilization; biodegradable

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Methylparaben

Preservative, narrow spectrum; often combined, check allergen risk and regulatory limits.

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Antioxidant and antimicrobial; low levels for preservation; irritating at high concentrations, restricted use.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Palmitoyl oligopeptide for firming; water-soluble bioactive peptide, avoid high heat, functional additive.

Parfum

Fragrance for scent; may contain allergens, caution for sensitive skin, full labeling required.

PEG-8

Not decoded yet

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Microbial ferment for humectancy and skin conditioning; gentle.

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Retinyl Propionate

Retinoid ester for antioxidant and keratolytic effect; photosensitizing, use at night.

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

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