Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Incompatibilities and failure points

最常见的翻车不是变色而是析晶。高规格白藜芦醇在纯水相中几乎不溶,与高浓度电解质(氯化钠、氯化钾、盐增稠体系)共用会盐析,析出白色针状结晶,而且往往灌装后一两周才显现,那时货已经发出去了。与阳离子调理剂配伍因单宁背景出现浑浊絮凝;与铁、铜离子生成深色络合物;与强碱段(氢氧化钠调节、皂基体系)接触时白藜芦醇快速氧化并显黄至棕。与高比例乙醇搭配虽然溶得好,但在喷雾、无水精华这类会挥发的剂型里,乙醇跑掉后局部过饱和照样析晶。与含活性氯、过氧化物的体系互相消耗。

Stability

反式白藜芦醇见光会异构成顺式并逐步降解,这是它最主要的失效路径,透明瓶在货架灯下两三个月即可见颜色转黄与含量下降;遇氧、遇碱加速。常见做法:溶剂用丙二醇/丁二醇/乙醇与水的混合相,并且刻意留出溶解余量而不是踩着溶解极限做;pH控在4.0–5.5;加0.05–0.1%螯合剂;配少量还原型辅助抗氧化剂;外包用不透光材质。稳定性留样必须包含光照组,只做45℃会漏掉最关键的一条;同时要加做5℃冷循环两周,专门看返晶。

Processing notes

先做预溶液再谈投料。高规格粉体用丙二醇或丁二醇(必要时补少量乙醇)在50–60℃下搅拌溶清,然后冷却到室温静置观察是否返晶——这一步是判断能不能上到目标添加量的关键,冷却返晶就说明已超溶解极限,只能降量或改增溶方案,不要靠热投料硬压进去。属后加料,乳化体系降温到40℃以下再并入。避免高温直投主锅,70℃以上长时间保温会同时带来降解与色深。放大时的坑在冷却速率:实验室100g降温快,过饱和窗口短,不容易看出问题;500L罐降温慢,反而更容易在缓慢冷却过程中长出晶核,所以打样阶段必须留一支放5℃两周做冷循环,并在SOP里写明灌装前目视检查有无结晶。

What it addresses

主要标志物为白藜芦醇与虎杖苷(白藜芦醇苷),属二苯乙烯类多酚,在配方中作为抗氧化组分使用,也常见于抗老与亮白方向的复配。客户习惯按白藜芦醇含量(5%、50%、98%)比价,但含量越高越难溶,颜色、气味与析晶风险同步上升,选规格实质上是在选溶解方案。

Market direction

中国 / CN

作为化妆品原料常规使用,需确认原料收录状态与原料安全信息,并核对提取溶剂与载体的申报口径;以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

欧盟框架下作为化妆品成分常规使用,安全评估需覆盖提取溶剂与标志物含量区间;以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

美国按化妆品管理常规使用,关注成分安全支持文件与标签准确性,以及设施与产品登记义务;以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

日韩及东南亚主要市场普遍可用,需按各国原料目录与宣称管理制度逐一复核;以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

02961

Standard Chinese name

虎杖（POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM）根提取物

Max historical use, leave-on

4.4276%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (02961)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (58652) · 功能 ANTIOXIDANT

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

虎杖提取物,虎杖根提取物,白藜芦醇天然来源,Polygonum cuspidatum,Reynoutria japonica

CAS

无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)

Suits formats

Serum · Essence · Cream · Lotion · Sheet mask · Toner

Halal and vegan

植物来源,通常可做vegan主张;若使用乙醇提取规格,清真需供应商就溶剂来源与残留出具证明。

Cost band

Mid

Evidence strength

高

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