dermaquest Advanced Essential B5 Hydrating Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Panthenol
3. Sodium Hyaluronate
4. Hydroxyapatite
5. Centella Asiatica Extract
6. Echinacea Purpurea Extract
7. Propylene Glycol
8. Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
9. Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract
10. Sodium Polyaspartate
11. Hedera Helix Leaf Extract
12. Parietaria Officinalis Extract
13. Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
14. Arnica Montana Flower Extract
15. Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
16. Plankton Extract
17. Carbomer
18. Glycerin
19. Sea Water
20. Laminaria Digitata Extract
21. Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
22. Saccharide Isomerate
23. Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
24. Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
25. Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
26. Glucosamine Hcl
27. Bambusa Vulgaris Stem/Leaf Extract
28. Pisum Sativum Extract
29. Sodium Lactate
30. Sodium PCA
31. Butylene Glycol
32. Lecithin
33. Polysorbate 20
34. Phenoxyethanol
35. Caprylyl Glycol
36. Ethylhexylglycerin
37. Hexylene Glycol
38. Pentylene Glycol
39. Potassium Sorbate
40. Sodium Phytate
41. Sodium Benzoate
42. Sodium Hydroxide
43. Citric Acid
44. Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
45. Linalool

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains fragranceContains PEGContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oils

Formulation view Aqueous serum highlighting Panthenol and multi-molecular-weight Hyaluronic Acid, combined with Hydroxyapatite and various botanicals for hydration and soothing. High-MW crosslinked HA forms a surface film. Preserved with Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin. Formulation insight: complex botanical blend increases formulation intricacy, requiring attention to raw material stability and compatibility.

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

ANTISTATIC

Panthenol

HUMECTANT

Sodium HyaluronatePropylene GlycolSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

ABRASIVE

Hydroxyapatite

CLEANSING

Centella Asiatica Extract

MOISTURISING

Echinacea Purpurea Extract

Other ingredients

Malva Sylvestris Flower ExtractSodium PolyaspartateHedera Helix Leaf ExtractParietaria Officinalis ExtractSambucus Nigra Flower ExtractArnica Montana Flower ExtractCucumis Sativus Fruit ExtractPlankton ExtractCarbomerGlycerinSea WaterLaminaria Digitata ExtractChlorella Vulgaris ExtractSaccharide IsomerateCitrullus Lanatus Fruit ExtractPyrus Malus Fruit ExtractLens Esculenta Fruit ExtractGlucosamine HclBambusa Vulgaris Stem/Leaf ExtractPisum Sativum ExtractSodium LactateSodium PCAButylene GlycolLecithinPolysorbate 20PhenoxyethanolCaprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerinHexylene GlycolPentylene GlycolPotassium SorbateSodium PhytateSodium BenzoateSodium HydroxideCitric AcidLavandula Angustifolia OilLinalool

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Hydroxyapatite

Mineral abrasive/bulking agent; gentle physical exfoliant for oral care.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Echinacea Purpurea Extract

Echinacea herb extract for moisturizing/conditioning; contains chlorogenic acids; check plant origin.

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Crosslinked high-MW HA; forms surface hydrogel for long-lasting hydration, minimal penetration, physical film-forming.

Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract

Botanical for skin conditioning and soothing; high levels of crude extracts may sensitize.

Sodium Polyaspartate

Chelating agent and humectant, low irritation; improves surfactant performance in hard water.

Hedera Helix Leaf Extract

Ivy leaf extract, saponins, anti-inflammatory, vasoconstrictor, low conc.

Parietaria Officinalis Extract

Parietaria extract for soothing and emollient conditioning. Plant-derived, well-tolerated at standard levels; no known severe compatibility issues.

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract

Plant extract for soothing and toning; high levels of crude extracts may sensitize.

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Arnica extract; plant soothing/perfume alternative; low conc, potential sensitizer, patch test advised

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Botanical extract for conditioning; note extraction impact on active retention

Plankton Extract

Plankton extract for skin conditioning; low concentrations typical, ensure source purity to avoid microbial contamination.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Sea Water

Natural ingredient with salts; acts as solvent or humectant, high salt content may feel gritty

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Seaweed extract for skin protection; moderate concentration to avoid osmotic irritation.

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Algae extract for skin conditioning and antioxidant; typically 1-5%, monitor stability

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Watermelon extract; L-citrulline/sugar; low-conc humectant, mild, no pub comed data

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Apple fruit extract, polyphenols for conditioning and antioxidant; batch variation needs standardization

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Lentil extract; protein/sugar; low-conc conditioning, mild, no pub data

Glucosamine Hcl

Glucosamine hydrochloride for anti-static and hair conditioning; highly water-soluble, minimal skin irritation risk.

Bambusa Vulgaris Stem/Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Pisum Sativum Extract

Pea extract, protein/antioxidant; skin protecting/conditioning, water-soluble, watch stability in acidic/enzymatic systems.

Sodium Lactate

Sodium lactate for moisturizing and exfoliation; pH buffering agent

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA, NMF component, 1-10% humectant; salty/tacky at high levels.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Hexylene Glycol

Polyol solvent and humectant with penetration enhancement; limit concentration to avoid irritation, no specific allergen tag

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Sodium Phytate

Chelating agent stabilizes metal ions to prevent oxidative degradation; also used in oral care, high safety profile.

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Fragrance essential oil, 0.1–1%; contains allergens, patch test required.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

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