cipher Beam Me Up (Discontinued)

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
3. Ascorbyl Glucoside
4. Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
5. Niacinamide
6. Squalane
7. Propanediol
8. Heptyl Undecylenate
9. Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
10. Undecane
11. Myristyl Myristate
12. Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract
13. Caffeine
14. Oryzanol
15. Olive Glycerides
16. Glyceryl Stearate
17. Glycerin
18. Panthenol
19. Cetyl Alcohol
20. Tridecane
21. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
22. Beta-Glucan
23. Ceramide NP
24. Ceramide AP
25. Ceramide EOP
26. Phytosphingosine
27. Cholesterol
28. Sodium Hyaluronate
29. Saccharide Isomerate
30. Arginine
31. Polyacrylate-13
32. D-Alpha Tocopherol
33. Bisabolol
34. Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
35. Glyceryl Oleate Citrate
36. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
37. Hydroxyacetophenone
38. Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
39. Sodium Phytate
40. Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
41. Carbomer
42. Polyisobutene
43. Polysorbate 20
44. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
45. Potassium Sorbate
46. Xanthan Gum

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of fragranceFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains mineral oilContains PEG

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

ANTIOXIDANT

Ascorbyl TetraisopalmitateAscorbyl Glucoside

SKIN CONDITIONING

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

SqualaneHeptyl Undecylenate

Other ingredients

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateUndecaneMyristyl MyristateTephrosia Purpurea Seed ExtractCaffeineOryzanolOlive GlyceridesGlyceryl StearateGlycerinPanthenolCetyl AlcoholTridecanePalmitoyl Tripeptide-38Beta-GlucanCeramide NPCeramide APCeramide EOPPhytosphingosineCholesterolSodium HyaluronateSaccharide IsomerateArgininePolyacrylate-13D-Alpha TocopherolBisabololZingiber Officinale Root ExtractGlyceryl Oleate CitrateCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideHydroxyacetophenoneHydroxypropyl CyclodextrinSodium PhytateSodium Lauroyl LactylateCarbomerPolyisobutenePolysorbate 20Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6Potassium SorbateXanthan Gum

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Vitamin C ester antioxidant; more stable than ascorbic acid but still light-sensitive.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Stable Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant; more stable than pure ascorbic acid, releases activity slowly in neutral/basic conditions.

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil

Oat kernel oil for skin conditioning; moisturizing, sensitive skin friendly

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Heptyl Undecylenate

Heptyl undecylenate, light emollient ester; fresh feel, non-greasy, low comedogenic risk

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Bio-fermented filtrate for antimicrobial and anti-dandruff effects; assess individual variability, avoid in known allergy.

Undecane

Undecane; light aliphatic hydrocarbon emollient; high volatility, pair with occlusives, flammable

Myristyl Myristate

Di-C14 ester, waxy solid for thickening and conditioning; provides matte and smooth feel, low comedogenicity, good for compacts.

Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract

Skin conditioning seed extract with polyphenols; verify batch stability and microbial limits.

Caffeine

Active ingredient, 0.1–2%; promotes circulation, irritation risk at high concentration.

Oryzanol

Rice-bran antioxidant for skin conditioning and sebum balance

Olive Glycerides

Olive-derived mono/diglycerides as auxiliary O/W emulsifiers and emollients; screen olive-allergy risk.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Tridecane

Tridecane, a long-chain alkane acting as emollient and solvent; petrochemical-derived, inert and low toxicity.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl tripeptide; signaling peptide for collagen and antioxidants; 0.1-1% typical, light-sensitive

Beta-Glucan

Polysaccharide for soothing and hydration; high MW acts on the surface, poor penetration into deep dermis.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Ceramide AP

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine barrier repair ingredient, 0.1–1%; water-soluble, good for dry skin.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Polyacrylate-13

Not decoded yet

D-Alpha Tocopherol

Not decoded yet

Bisabolol

Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Root extract for scent and toning; may irritate compromised skin.

Glyceryl Oleate Citrate

Emulsifier, with cleansing and moisturizing functions

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyacetophenone as antioxidant; often boosts Vitamin C, works in acidic pH.

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Cyclodextrin to complex fragrances/actives; boosts solubility and stability.

Sodium Phytate

Chelating agent stabilizes metal ions to prevent oxidative degradation; also used in oral care, high safety profile.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Mild emulsifier at 1–5%; suitable for sensitive skin, mind cationic surfactant compatibility

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Polyisobutene

Inert film former and occlusive; increases viscosity, slippery feel, used in lipsticks

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

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